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Post by Franklin1 on Jun 4, 2019 20:53:03 GMT 10
G'day sgtl,
I reckon you'd go pretty close to "perfect" with this rubber size. The 3/16" side gives you a little bit of width to play with, to get the glass to slide into the channel. I'd sit the glass down in the channel on the workbench and test it for "looseness", ie. check how well the sides of the channel are gripping the surface of the glass on both surfaces. If you feel it seems a little loose, you can always pump a small bead of butyl mastic along the bottom of the channel, before permanently fixing the glass, to ensure the best seal.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Jun 3, 2019 23:23:14 GMT 10
G'day sgtl,
When you've completed this job, you will be the forum expert on replacing the window rubber on Globetrotter kitchen windows!
The crucial dimension for window rubbers is the radius you want the rubber to wrap around. What is the height of your glass?, because half that height will be the radius at the rounded ends. Window rubbers that have a 'web' of 4mm have a minimum bending radius of 30 to 35mm (see Column C in the table down the bottom of the page here: www.abcrubber.com/1/glazing_profile.html ).
Your first diagram above, RE904, has a web of 3mm, so it should wrap around a fairly tight radius. It doesn't have a filler strip, and would be rather fussy to fit the glass into the rubber channel. If you can manage to pull the rubber apart to get the glass in position, this rubber would probably do the job ok.
Your second diagram, RE684, seems to match what you've already got in appearance. How do the dimensions of old and new compare? If the 22mm base of this strip tends to wrinkle around the curved ends of the glass, you could perhaps carefully trim 2mm off each side to give a new base width of 18mm (to match the width of the curved topside). I'm guessing the web of this rubber is fairly thin by the looks of it in the picture. With this profile, you also have the fussiness of trying to prise the rubber apart to fit the glass (ie. no filler strip). The one query with the dimensions on the diagram is whether the 5mm height relates to the actual channel/slot height, or if that's the overall height of the rubber, and therefore the channels are narrower.
Your third diagram, RE1130, would be a no-go in my opinion, mainly because the channel/slot width of 6mm on both sides is too wide for your glass thickness (...I'm assuming your glass is 3mm thick). 6mm on one side would be great for your ply, but wouldn't seal the glass properly on the other side. The web size of 4mm should be ok for your bending radius though.
In summary, I'd be inclined to go for your first diagram, RE904, providing you can get the rubber channels apart to push the glass into position. My window rubbers are 30mm wide, and I've never thought they were "too bulky" when looking at them on the van, so a profile of only 21mm shouldn't look out of place on a smaller window.
Helpful hint: there's lots of info on Youtube about fitting window rubbers, including using the string method to pull the rubber out from behind the glass when fitting it into position. I tried that method but couldn't quite get it to work for me. I ended up painfully and laboriously using a pair of push-bike tyre levers to work my way around the rubber. These small tyre levers have a spoon-shaped end on them which helped to lever the rubber out of the way.
I'll be listening for some choice Chinese swear words coming from the Rochester area!
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on May 31, 2019 21:04:46 GMT 10
G'day sgtl,
In my post diagram, the seal shown as part number PEXT1692 would most likely suit your panel/glass combination (10mm and 3mm), but the minimum bending radius of 126mm is not tight enough for your window. I'm inclined to think you would have to go the same way as 'willies' globetrotter, and router the thickness of the ply down to a thickness that would suit the bending radius of your window. For example, seal number PEXT1730 in my diagram would suit glass 3mm and panel 5mm, with a min bending radius of 76mm, so the ends of your window would have to be 2 x 76mm (or 152mm) height or greater.
Clear as mud??!
ps. note that in the diagrams where it says "Clearance of Glass and Panel", this means the distance of solid rubber between the bottoms of the channels. This solid rubber section is known as the "web". So the opening in the ply for the window has to be: height of glass plus two times the web plus another 1mm to make it easier to fit it all in position.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on May 1, 2019 19:55:48 GMT 10
G'day fran81,
A Franklin chassis number of V8703 is the 8,703rd chassis built in 1974 (that's what the 'V' relates to), which means it was built pretty close to the end of that year.
I've always worked on the "general rule" that single axle vans are given 300kgs payload, and tandem axle vans are given 400kgs. However, in NSW that can vary depending on the length of the van. I've had a 1976 14ft aluminium poptop van that was given 280kgs, and my current 10ft 8ins bondwood van has been given 252kgs on top of the 748kgs tare (GVM = 1000kgs).
Agree with Warrenk, it doesn't take much to end up overweight when "everything including the kitchen sink" is loaded into the van.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on May 1, 2019 18:20:40 GMT 10
G'day boatknut,
Forum member "twocutekelpies" (Shelley) will come along and tell you the year of your van. I'm thinking around 1975, but she can be more accurate. The windows are generally known as "louvre windows", and were used on both the Millard and York models in the first half of the 1970s.
We have a sister forum for caravans built in the 1970s, and you are welcome to join over there if you wish: ditzygypsy.proboards.com/
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Apr 21, 2019 21:00:03 GMT 10
G'day redmr2red,
Try these, and see if it's what you want...
classicswitches.com.au -> light switches -> Bakelite range
perioddetails.com.au -> Electrical switches & dimmers -> Bakelite switches
Also search Google for 'white bakelite light switches images' and scroll through all the pictures to see if anything suits. Click on any picture to visit the relating website.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Apr 16, 2019 0:02:10 GMT 10
G'day Mr J D Strugglebrook,
Have booked, arriving Friday - leaving Monday. Asked Carol for a front row seat for the Sat'dy Night Reddo Spewtacular Show, but she said all the available raincoats have been booked out, and it's best if we sat further back in maybe Row 6.
ps. also want to book a jar of the "Limited Edition 2019 vintage Tomato Relish" if Pam is having a stall again this year.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Apr 15, 2019 23:51:09 GMT 10
G'day jp63,
It's certainly an eye-catching difference inside the van now, hey?! Congratulations on the great work you are both doing.
A couple of points...
1. Have dedicated earth leads been put in to each of the 12V lights on the van? It's something the manufacturers of aluminium vans seemed to have skimped on to save costs.
2. Are you using paint stripper to help soften the paint on the overhead cupboard doors? If so, use sawdust under a pad of rag (or preferrably a pad of coconut fibre) to remove the paint a lot easier. The sawdust is fine enough to get into the grooves and will act as a scourer to remove the paint, without leaving marks on the timber. Coat the paint with the stripper, wait 5 minutes for the paint to soften, then sprinkle copious amount of sawdust over the stripper. Then scour away with the pad or coconut fibre (can get from old mattresses). Stubborn paint patches may take a couple of coats of stripper, but the end result will be a surface back to bare timber ready for a light sanding and repainting.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Apr 15, 2019 23:27:41 GMT 10
G'day Ray,
Have a look at the tile featured in this link . Notice the tile is a standard 300 x 300mm but could be cut in half to give you your 150mm height requirement.
Also notice down the bottom of the description: "Our recommended pressed metal installer: Andrew Gay - Mob: 0418501111 Email: pressedmetal@outlook.com". Andrew might be just the guy to make contact with to discuss your situation and give you some hints on what options you have, etc.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Feb 24, 2019 14:27:28 GMT 10
Hi DonR, no worries about challenging my thoughts. I had checked the Viscount DHL thread, and there is a 1964 Viscount showing with A714 chassis number. A rough calc in my head suggested there would have been more than a couple of thousand built between '64 and '68. However, it shows the value of databases such as Shelley's (which I didn't check.) cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Feb 24, 2019 13:40:20 GMT 10
G'day marcduravan, and welcome to the forum! The term "Duralvan" means it has an aluminium frame. Something doesn't seem to match with a chassis number of A2438 and the year 1968. One or the other perhaps isn't true. Approximate tare weight can be calculated by measuring the cabin length of the van in feet, and multiplying by 52kgs. Then add another 100kgs for the second axle in a tandem van. For example, cabin length is 18ft... 18ft X 52kgs = 936kgs Add 100kgs for second axle...936 + 100 = 1036kgs approx tare weight. cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Feb 20, 2019 21:26:20 GMT 10
G'day tikitraveller,
I'm wondering if you've got a baby Franklin from around 1960. The sloping wheel arch is something Franklin used in their design. The painted side stripe on the plywood was also used by Franklin.
A couple of questions: 1.) Is there a shelf above the sink that has a single triangular support underneath the shelf in the middle? 2.) Is there a chassis number welded on the top of the nearside drawbar arm (the drawbar arm leading to the door side). The chassis number would be up to 3 numbers followed by a letter in 'superscript' after the numbers, eg. 123A
If you click on this link and look at the photos at the top of the page, the van pictured in the 6th photo (captioned '12ft Standard Franklin For Economy') is possibly the same as your van, depending on your answers above.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Feb 10, 2019 8:05:06 GMT 10
G'day sgtl, I have to agree with Ray...I wasn't overwhelmed with the name choices either, for such a majestic van. But I also couldn't come up with any eye-catching alternatives, other than the name "Gladys from Rochester Heights". Seems to me that the name should reflect the high class appearance and brand of the van, but also relate to where you found it if its purchase origins need to be included. Maybe something like "Spirit of Wentworth", where 'spirit = courage'... or... [this section purposely left blank pending further flashes of brilliant thinking] cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Jan 24, 2019 10:20:45 GMT 10
G'day sgtl, Oh, good...we'll be able to compare notes in the future, about how well these paints/dyes last. I've just painted the indicator lens on my van with "Autoline Brush-on Lens & Bulb Dye Colour Amber" that I bought from a local car parts shop. Cost me about $20 for a piffling 15ml bottle (must be liquid gold!), and took two coats to get coverage that didn't look streaky/washed out. Funnily enough, the bottle says 'amber' but the lens now look more reddish than amber. I substituted LED festoon globes in warm white into both lights, so from behind the van they still look amber-ish when lit up.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Jan 23, 2019 23:35:29 GMT 10
G'day Ray, love what you've done so far. I reckon a couple of steerable wheels on the front (Hutchison dolly??) and a couple of Clydesdale horses pulling you along, would be picture perfect in the end!
Have you tested whether the front bay window interferes with opening the rear door of your tow car? The huge handbrake handle my brother made for my van stops me opening the rear door of my Prado all the way. Bit of a nuisance trying to load and unload stuff out of the back of the car when the van is hooked on.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Jan 23, 2019 23:09:02 GMT 10
G'day sgtl, I'm guessing they are hydraulic, yes?? In theory, anything can be salvaged/restored if you throw enough money at it, so the short answer is 'yes'.
However, it's a big van, and the constant shunting of the coupling behind the towball can get annoying out on the bouncy roads. I tow my little van with a 4-litre Prado, and I flip that reversing lock into position when towing, so the van coupling doesn't keep going 'bang-bang' every time I hit an undulation on the road.
I think I'd much prefer electric brakes on a van the size of yours.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Jan 23, 2019 22:48:09 GMT 10
If the van only has a handbrake at the moment, perhaps it already has electric brakes fitted?? I would think a 15ft Millard would exceed the 750kgs tare weight that requires brakes to be fitted, and so there must be some sort of braking system on the van for towing purposes.
Our history research says that Millard introduced electric brakes in 1977 on all their vans 16ft and over, so when Viscount took over building Millards in 1979 you would think Viscount continued doing this (although I have no research to say 'yes or no'). I'd be thinking that by 1982, electric brakes were becoming something that consumers would be 'insisting' on their vans, irrespective of its size, and would have perhaps become more common than the old-style cable brakes??
Where's hughdeany when we need him?
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Jan 17, 2019 19:12:34 GMT 10
G'day richo66, and welcome to this forum. Your best bet is to pop over and join our sister forum for Classic Caravans built in the 1970s. You can join up over there using the same Username you've used here. Go to: ditzygypsy.proboards.comThere are members on that forum who have done the sorts of repairs that you are faced with, so you'll get a lot of help and information to get you on your way. cheers, Al. Edit: sorry Mr Koala, while I was typing, you were posting. Yes, read the thread you linked PLUS join the other forum. Best of both worlds!
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Post by Franklin1 on Jan 7, 2019 20:51:28 GMT 10
G'day jp63, have sent you a Personal Message.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Jan 5, 2019 13:01:42 GMT 10
G'day All, We spent the Xmas-New Year period in the van in the north-east region of Victoria. Stinking hot with nearly every day above 35 deg. Did a day trip on a Sunday to the town of Bright which is obviously a popular town in summer, with people everywhere. During a walk up and down the streets, we came across the Bright Hospital Op Shop which had a display of photos of cars/caravans/parks in the front window. This is the Op Shop... This is the display in the window. The photos are A3-size enlargements printed on plain printer paper... While we were standing at the window, a lady from a younger generation pointed out this teardrop to her friends, and said "it must be for taking their dogs away with them on holidays" ... I took photos through the window glass using my phone, so the end results are a bit variable... The shop was shut on the day we were there, so I couldn't find out any more about the reasons for the display, or the origins of the photos, or even if the photos were available for sale in some shape or form. Perhaps if there's a forum member living locally, they could enlighten us a bit more. This last photo is of my van set up for Xmas at Myrtleford Caravan Park... cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Nov 14, 2018 17:24:19 GMT 10
Hi Ray,
Yes, you are correct in remembering me posting about calico shrinkage. I got caught when I made the curtains for my van. I had planned to put calico at the back of the patterned curtain fabric to protect the pattern from sun-induced fading. I went about measuring all the curtain sizes, and cut the calico into pieces to match those sizes, with a small amount of wastage allowance. Then I put all the pieces in the washing machine. At the end of the cycle, not only did I have pieces that were riddled with heavily frayed edges, but I also had pieces that were about 100mm shorter in width and length than I required. Needless to say, all of the pieces were thrown into the "spare parts bin", and some urgent recalculations made for larger replacements.
Have enjoyed reading about your project progress! You're doing some interesting and thoughtful work there!
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Oct 8, 2018 22:56:12 GMT 10
Details of the annual "Garage Sale Trail" on 20/21 Oct can be found here: www.garagesaletrail.com.au/sales?location=-34.539921509257404,150.86539414999993,13z&name=&date=&trail=false&items= (search locations Windang; Lake Illawarra; Mount Warrigal; Barrack Heights; Barrack Point; Flinders; Oak Flats; Dunmore; Shellharbour )
Take some time to go and have a look at the new marina being developed just south of you. See the million-dollar residences popping up all over the place around the marina. Picture yourself on a verandah with a gin-and-tonic as you gaze towards your $5 million-dollar yacht.
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Oct 5, 2018 20:44:30 GMT 10
Hi DonR, Once again I doff my cap to you for your investigative skills. I'm pretty sure the sticker on the light blue Franklin Futura above is the one used by Franklin between mid-1970 and 1973, so it would have been fitted to the van nearly 10 years after it was built... I'm inclined to think the correct badge is the cast metal 'Franklin' badge in the following photo...
This cast metal badge is on yve's van, as well as a 1964 bondwood Franklin owned by earlee
I found the following photo in my computer collection. I saved it and some of the other photos from the following thread in 2010: Olympic fibreglass - True?? cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Sept 28, 2018 22:35:12 GMT 10
G'day Ray,
Great progress on your project so far!
You seem to be building a 2-wheel version of a "Shepherd's Hut" (see images here ). Are you going to make curved bows along the length of the ceiling to support the roof battens?
Following on from your Rubik's cube colouring, I'm hoping we see a ceiling mural as detailed as this one
Have enjoyed following your thread. Keep on keeping on!
cheers, Al.
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Post by Franklin1 on Sept 21, 2018 21:54:42 GMT 10
G'day wodnas,
The "service kit" for Whale Angled Freshwater Pump MkII, MkIII, and MkIV is Part No. SK0103. It might still be available from this stockist in the UK:
Alternatively, you could perhaps make contact with these people in the UK, and see if they can do anything for you, or tell you if there's a local stockist near you:
If all else fails, it's possible the service kit for the newer model "Whale Vertical Self Priming Galley Pump - Whale GP0650 Pantry Pump V Mk6 (hand operated)" - might have some of the parts that would suit your pump. The service kit is part number AK0618.
cheers, Al.
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