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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Oct 10, 2012 22:52:31 GMT 10
And thank you to all those who helped me setup my original canvas annex for the first time.
There must be a joke in it somewhere ... Question: How many vintage caravan forum members does it take to setup an annex? Answer: Six - including one to hold Reddo's beer.
You will be pleased to know it was a lot easier to pull down!
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Oct 10, 2012 22:21:29 GMT 10
We reached Tathra late on Saturday with steady rain. But then we woke on Sunday to clear skies and didn't see another cloud for the next four days! A beautiful beach holiday - thanks to all the organisers.
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Oct 5, 2012 9:45:07 GMT 10
We're plodding our way North with two young children and plenty of stops. Don't expect us any time soon!
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Sept 16, 2012 0:10:47 GMT 10
Does anyone have any experience of working with Rescote (or a similar product)? My forum search didn't come up with much. For the uninitiated, Rescote is a plastic surfaced ply – claimed to be lightweight, flexible, non-crazing and waterproof. Apparently it was reasonably common for bondwood vans My 1959 Coronet has Rescote sides and an aluminium roof. Although most of my Rescote surfaces are in good condition, I do have three horizontal cracks (around 300mm long and 5mm wide), that were probably caused by one or two low speed collisions over the years. With reference to the photo below, I am currently using masking tape to cover them (blue on left and silver under number plate). I could replace the entire curved lower panel, but I would like to know if there is a simpler local repair method (possibly even as a short term solution). Note the van is double skinned. Following this repair, could I paint the affected region and blend into the surrounding Rescote? I realise I may not achieve an invisible result. If I wanted to paint the entire van, does anyone know if it is possible to lightly sand and paint over the “plastic” surface, or would I need to sand back to bare timber? The original painted stripe is still intact. Has anyone found a similar product that could be used to replace the damaged Rescote panels?
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Sept 12, 2012 14:05:07 GMT 10
While companies like M to M can supply custom inner spring mattresses to your required dimensions, outer fabric choices are somewhat lacking.
I would be interested to know what others have done in terms of making their own covers for a more period style look.
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Aug 9, 2012 10:59:36 GMT 10
Thanks Tony. If I go down that route, I shall investigate further.
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Aug 7, 2012 10:50:36 GMT 10
Still for sale.
I am willing to separate, but assume buyers would be interested in the complete package.
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Aug 6, 2012 0:04:27 GMT 10
Turns out the long lamps are 240V and the round lamps are 12V.
For the time being, I have disconnected the 240V lamps rather than converting to dual pole switches.
I can always use a portable lamp through the dual pole GPO I have had installed.
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Aug 2, 2012 7:30:45 GMT 10
Thanks for your input everyone.
I must admit, I don't have high hopes for saving the old tiles. I spoke to McMats, but their range is pretty limited at the moment. Received some lino sheet samples from Forbo (Marmoleum) and they look pretty good. Could be the way to go, as I'm not really into the checkerboard look.
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Aug 1, 2012 14:39:14 GMT 10
Looks like an abandoned meth lab ;D Perhaps I've been watching too much Breaking Bad
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jul 30, 2012 23:01:01 GMT 10
Thanks guys, I'm going to try Option 1. Hopefully the contact adhesive will be strong enough to hold the curled edges down. Perhaps I'll do a few at a time and weigh them down with bricks for a few minutes. And I'll attempt to fully remove each tile, rather than just poke a bit of glue under the raised edge.
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jul 30, 2012 14:29:22 GMT 10
Some of the 9” linoleum floor tiles in my 1959 Coronet are lifting at the edges and I need to do something about it... AsbestosThe first thing to consider is that the existing floor tiles could contain asbestos. I understand the cost to test would be at least $100 (for a home test kit) and professional removal could cost thousands. I have decided to avoid this expense by: • taking care not to break any tiles • gently heating tiles with a hair dryer to improve flexibility • wearing an appropriate respirator Option 1 - Reinstate Existing Tiles• Carefully lift edge of tile with a paint scraper • Prop edge of tile with a matchstick • Apply pressure sensitive “contact” adhesive under tile • Replace tile when adhesive is tacky • Clean up any mess with an appropriate solvent Advantages: preserve the originality of the caravan, relatively quick fix Disadvantages: tiles that currently seem secure may lift in the future, new adhesive beneath a tile might mean it does not sit flush with its neighbour, there may not be sufficient access to apply adhesive under some of the tiles Option 2 – Remove and Replace• Fully remove tiles with a paint scraper • Prepare subfloor and install new sheet according to manufacturer’s instructions • I currently like and have requested samples from www.forbo-flooring.com.au/Residential-flooring/Products/Marmoleum-Global-3/Artoleum-Piano/ Advantages: make a fresh start to ensure a well laid floor that will last for many years to come Disadvantages: more labour intensive, period style flooring products are difficult to obtain and may not look as good as the original I would appreciate comments from anyone who has been through a similar process. I want to do a good job, but have young children and very little spare time!
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jul 24, 2012 14:10:44 GMT 10
For Sale: 13” Wheel Package (FB Holden)Following an upgrade to 14” wheels, I would like to recover my costs for the 13” package. 3 x 13” steel rims (FB Holden) inc 2 sets of nuts (Very Good Condition) $70 3 x 175R13 light commercial truck tyres (Excellent Condition – used for one short trip) $300 3 x chrome plated hubcaps (FB Holden) (2 are in Very Good Condition while the spare has some pitting) $100 TOTAL PACKAGE PRICE $470For best presentation, you could blast and powder-coat the rims and re-chrome the spare hubcap. I would prefer to sell these as a complete package. Inspections are welcome (Rosanna, Melbourne). Please send me a PM if you would like to discuss anything.
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jul 17, 2012 13:03:42 GMT 10
I might be able to help (pm sent).
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jul 4, 2012 14:57:30 GMT 10
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jun 29, 2012 15:45:04 GMT 10
Strange - I found it pretty easy to obtain an unregistered vehicle permit from Vic roads. I provided them with a few details and they gave me a serial number to stamp on the draw bar.
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jun 29, 2012 10:49:56 GMT 10
Hi All, Due to inadequate records at Vicroads, I thought I'd head for a more knowledgable source... My 1959 Coronet came with (now expired) registration plate H32248. According to the VicRoads website, trailer series G00 000 to L99 999 were issued up to 1977. www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Registration/NumberPlates/StandardNumberPlates/TrailerPlate.htmI am curious to know if H32248 could be the original registration number for the caravan (circa 1959). Unfortunately, VicRoads also advised that: - since this registration has expired, it cannot be reissued. - it is not possible to request a specific rego number or obtain custom plates for trailers. - they can only issue the next available number (currently from the T series).
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jun 27, 2012 9:47:37 GMT 10
Hold the minty! I just noticed that the choice of Standard or WRW was only offered for smaller vans up to 14ft6. 15 and 16 ft vans were WRW only and larger vans were Tandem. Could WRW be some sort of axle configuration?
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jun 27, 2012 9:30:45 GMT 10
Thanks for all your creative suggestions, but the prize goes to Ray with Wrap Round Windows. I believe these were an option for the deluxe models. Your minty is in the post!
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jun 26, 2012 21:17:15 GMT 10
Unfortunately, I do not believe you can buy a period style buckle that complies with Australian standards. I have young children and when it comes to seatbelts, I wouldn't trust anything old or second hand. Hemco (in Ballarat) can supply a free set of webbing colour samples and have a full price list on their website: www.hemco.com.au/seatbelts.htmlI actually had my seatbelts supplied and fitted by Jamieson Auto Fit (in Sunshine), because I wasn't completely confident about the suitability of my existing anchor points. Turns out, the anchor points were OK - so I could have fitted the Hemco belts myself.
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jun 26, 2012 12:37:06 GMT 10
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jun 25, 2012 17:25:17 GMT 10
Narva currently produces a reasonably classic design with chrome surround.
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jun 25, 2012 17:20:03 GMT 10
According to the early 60s sales brochure for Coronet, there were two classes of construction available: standard and WRW. A minty goes to the most plausible suggestion!
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Jun 25, 2012 16:41:47 GMT 10
There are quite a few similarities to my 14ft 1959 Coronet, which weighs about a tonne
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Post by webrake4bricabrac on Mar 15, 2012 13:10:08 GMT 10
Hi Leinamoon,
I wonder how they came up with the 1000kg load rating?
Assuming a reasonable safety margin was included, you should be OK provided you don't exceed that limit. Referring to your most recent post, you do not need to add the ball weight (100kg) to the tare weight (640kg). Therefore, your available capacity to stay within the load rating is currently 360kg.
Obviously, you can reduce the ball weight by carefully distributing some of the load toward the rear of the van. I have heard the rule of thumb is to aim for 10% ball weight (i.e. 60-70kg in your case).
As far as road handling goes, you will just have to try it out for your unique combination of car and van.
Once you find a setup that works, you can load the van in the same manner every trip, without having to re-weigh it each time.
I also have a "stock" EK, but initially plan to use a modern towcar (with modern brakes), since my van (unloaded) is close to 1000kg.
For my future reference, where did you have your towbar fitted?
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