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Post by Mustang on Jun 26, 2016 8:55:20 GMT 10
Higher Purchase was alive & well "bar-b-que" 25cents per week.
Sun Lounge @ $28.00 seems expensive for 1958?
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Post by shesgotthelook on Jun 26, 2016 9:31:57 GMT 10
Agreed, I thought things were a little pricey. However, a beachside plot was ridiculously cheap!  |
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Post by shesgotthelook on Jul 8, 2016 20:01:47 GMT 10
Hutchinson Dolly Wheel in-situ    Had a couple of blokes from a local truck mechanics (that I know & trust) come & inspect the 47' with regards to putting a new axle & hydraulic brakes on her. They can do & assure me they will take extra special care of her. |
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Post by sportsman 1 on Jul 8, 2016 22:27:55 GMT 10
Entirely up to you but I would strongly suggest electric brakes rather than hydraulic. Much better system, works before the car is braking enough to get the override hydraulics working and no ugly non original hydraulic set up on the drawbar.
I would rather fit electric system to car than hydraulic system to caravan.
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Post by shesgotthelook on Jul 8, 2016 22:30:56 GMT 10
We have discussed that Leigh, only problem is it limits you to a vehicle with an electric brake controller of which we only possess 1!
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Post by brenten on Jul 8, 2016 23:47:04 GMT 10
you could buy a second controller from ebay or wire a pull apart plug and swap the one unit from car to car as needed the elec brakes are fantastic...brenten
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Post by thegeneral on Jul 9, 2016 15:21:03 GMT 10
There is an electric control unit that is fixed to the trailer/caravan hitch but needs to be set before you drive
there for it does not matter what tow car is used
Also if you have an old van keep the old hitch on there because that is what it should have you can hide
and use the better electric system.
Graeme
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Post by shesgotthelook on Jul 9, 2016 17:11:42 GMT 10
3 votes for electric & 2 for keeping the hitches! (Brenten called in today) I've never been comfortable with this style of hitch so will still ditch them but will go electric then. It's not as if I have a period tow car to pull it anyway  Bit the bullet & finished painting the outside today! Pre painting prep of the blue stripe   |
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Post by shesgotthelook on Jul 11, 2016 16:28:51 GMT 10
Big round of tail light surgery this afternoon, think I'm getting the hang of this caper!   |
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Post by shesgotthelook on Jul 12, 2016 16:42:38 GMT 10
I would like to put a brass towel rail on the back but having trouble finding where to buy. Any suggestions? Haven't tried plumbers or Metal Land yet. Bunnings was a negative as is an extensive search of the internet  |
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Post by willies on Jul 12, 2016 18:53:55 GMT 10
Try a light retailer for an extension rod for a ceiling fan. I have purchased some previously at 1.8m length ( still have 2 lengths as I had to buy the pack of 6). 20mm diameter rod. Not sure if you can get longer. If not you may need to either join 2 together or have a joiner/ support post mid point. They aren't cheap as they are a heavy brass rod. Then there is the challenge of getting posts in brass to match. Try old chrome ones from building recyclers and maybe have the chrome removed. PM me if you are interested in the 2 that I have.
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bigkel
Full Member
If you never never go, you never never know.
Posts: 248
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Post by bigkel on Jul 12, 2016 19:20:32 GMT 10
Those tail and indicator rear lights are actually Land Rover , and are available aftermarket or genuine . they were also fitted to AC Shelby Cobras and replicas . ( which is what i had them on ) so must still be available
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Post by shesgotthelook on Jul 12, 2016 22:44:47 GMT 10
The indicator ones are from Holden UK but were a flat backed assembly with narrow bulb, the reds are from a box of all sorts I have, I used rubber fittings from some other old car assembly & put new sockets & globes from auto barn inside them!
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Post by akeepsake on Jul 22, 2016 23:53:36 GMT 10
Hey guys it's been a while since I logged on but just doing a catch up now!! Great job so far well done!! Looking forward to seeing you in Tassie and lining up a couple of 40s relics !!'
Keep up the good work👍😁
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Post by shesgotthelook on Jul 23, 2016 13:47:11 GMT 10
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Post by shesgotthelook on Aug 3, 2016 15:38:43 GMT 10
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Post by shesgotthelook on Aug 29, 2016 8:50:01 GMT 10
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Post by Rattles on Aug 29, 2016 10:16:25 GMT 10
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Post by shesgotthelook on Aug 29, 2016 14:28:27 GMT 10
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Post by shesgotthelook on Aug 31, 2016 9:27:19 GMT 10
Another interesting conundrum & one that may interest you Rattles as van is now at the lights wiring stage. I get a phone call to say he can't find the wires for the clearance lights & he thinks they went to those battery cables in the cupboard & were turned on & off with a switch. This makes sense, as there is a switch inside the door that we couldn't allocate a job to & a switch at the rear of the van to turn tail lights on. Then there is a cable with a 3 pin power plug running the length of the van which possibly was a later addition of a brake light! We also removed a 240v light globe & switch from the off (right) side as the bunk went over the top of it & we sealed it over, in hindsight, this may have had something to do with the clearance light on that side Unfortunately this means we will have to have some exposed wiring inside the van. ( I can't provide any photos as poor van is sitting in the rain at the auto elecs house) Funny things folks did back in the day. |
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Post by shesgotthelook on Aug 31, 2016 14:14:46 GMT 10
Light socket & switch that are now removed  Switch with unknown purpose, one is the overhead light & a higher up one (not in view) is the outside light.  Switch at rear (small push one) & some obscure wiring- possibly the brake light.  |
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Post by Roehm3108 on Aug 31, 2016 16:46:19 GMT 10
Can you rewire the whole system using the existing wire as pull-through?  |
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Post by shesgotthelook on Aug 31, 2016 20:45:13 GMT 10
It's done Ray but he couldn't get to the clearance lights original wires. Never mind, it's not too obvious & I can always paint the wires.
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Post by griffin on Sept 1, 2016 17:18:17 GMT 10
Hi shesgotthelook
The wiring may seem strange to us now but back in the day it was probably state of the art. My bondwood had no external 12v wiring until some stop/tail/blinkers were added in the 90s. The wiring then just was glued up the outside of the van to the lights, worked fine but a bit rough. I managed to get it through the floor and to the appropriate area inside the van, much tidier. The 12v lighting and clearance lamps only work when power is applied to the terminals in the battery box so I had some fiddling to do to get the side and old tail light working, which by the way is only a tail lamp and number plate lamp. No brake lamp, it had been modified so that both globes worked as a tail lamp, guess that's why they had hand signals back in the day.
Now, through my bit of creative wiring to get the tail and side lamps connected I can't run the 12v lights from the power cable from the car. As soon as I plug it in all the tail and side lights come on, including the car! More fiddling one day to sort that out. I just use the old original cables and connect to the car battery for the 12v lighting which is much better than the 240v
The 240 was just as interesting, a piece of household cable out through the floor and chassis with a 3 pin plug so you could connect to an extension lead. The original owners family told me that he could probably count on one hand the number of times it was ever used where 240 was available. I redid it to a conventional inlet now under the van as I didn't want the modern plastic thing stuck on the side anywhere.
All good fun.
George
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Post by shesgotthelook on Sept 2, 2016 16:34:50 GMT 10
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