|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Feb 28, 2012 16:32:00 GMT 10
How do you cut ply sheeting without fraying little bits of the surface off? Particularly with a jigsaw. I never seem to manage it.
|
|
|
|
Post by Franklin1 on Feb 28, 2012 17:03:57 GMT 10
Use a metal cutting blade and not a wood cutting blade. The metal cutting blade has finer teeth on it, so you won't end up with as much splintering. You'll still get some, but considerably less that the wood cutting blade.  |
|
|
|
Post by margra on Feb 28, 2012 17:38:28 GMT 10
There is a ply hand saw that you can buy from building supplies, cost about $30 and is called a Bahco Profcut laminator. Can do an excellent job with it.
Graham
|
|
|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Feb 28, 2012 18:06:25 GMT 10
Thanks F1 and Graham. Graham the thought of cutting sheets of ply by hand makes me feel exhausted. Still, I have no bench saw or anything like that so it might come down to manual. I doubt I could keep a straight line though.... that's another problem.
|
|
|
|
Post by greedy53 on Feb 28, 2012 18:39:07 GMT 10
i have just finished my lttle van and getting advice from a builder i used a 1mm steel cutting blade in my 4 inch grinder cuts with no frayed edges and as a bonus you can cut shapes i was using 3 mm ply but it works works on most sizes and another bonus you can cut exactly along your mark
happy cutting
steve
|
|
|
|
Post by Roehm3108 on Feb 28, 2012 18:40:57 GMT 10
As Franklin1 says, use the finest teeth blade. Also try taping both sides of the ply along the cut line, using painter's masking tape. That should help too.
|
|
|
|
Post by margra on Feb 28, 2012 18:41:19 GMT 10
Hey with the saw there is not a problem it is really good to use and was recommended to me when I started doing my ply. The saw goes through it like butter and keeping straight is not a problem.
Not a lot of money when it saves a lot of problems.
Graham
|
|
|
|
Post by humpty2 on Feb 28, 2012 18:44:23 GMT 10
I go with 'greedy'.
I use a .9mm metal cutting disc in my angle grinder.....definately no frayed edges, but it helps to use a straight edge when trying to cut straight.
|
|
|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Feb 28, 2012 19:04:22 GMT 10
Ok, i like the grinder idea but will get a handsaw as well. Now, excuse me being pedantic - below is a pic of my grinder. If I used a straight bit of timber as a guide what part of the grinder would follow the guide.... it seems to have no adequate flat surface.  Darn thing hasn't been out of its box since it tried to eat my thumb (twice). |
|
|
|
Post by humpyboy on Feb 28, 2012 19:49:50 GMT 10
Darn thing hasn't been out of its box since it tried to eat my thumb (twice). So what makes you think it would be a good idea to try again  third time lucky? please be carefull with that thing, sounds to me like it has a mind of it's own. |
|
|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Feb 28, 2012 21:31:11 GMT 10
No, I am more cautious. It was over a decade ago and I was grinding glue of some slim strips of teak - holding them in one hand. Strictly two hands on the grinder these days.
|
|
|
|
Post by humpyboy on Feb 28, 2012 21:34:46 GMT 10
No, I am more cautious. It was over a decade ago and I was grinding glue of some slim strips of teak - holding them in one hand. Strictly two hands on the grinder these days. Sounds like something I'd do and you'ld think I'd know better.  |
|
raym
Full Member
Posts: 128
|
Post by raym on Feb 29, 2012 21:00:41 GMT 10
Hi Takiteazy To cut ply or even solid timber across the grane score the underside with a "Stanley knife"prior to cutting some times it pays to score both sides, Some thin ply like 3 mm you can cut right through with a sharp blade. Ray
|
|
|
|
Post by greedy53 on Feb 29, 2012 21:49:46 GMT 10
if you are cutting straight lines you will find that it is pretty easy to go straight try on a small bit of scrap
cut on a flat and stable serface i use an old wood top office desk best work bench ever
|
|
|
|
Post by smiles on Feb 29, 2012 22:29:22 GMT 10
We have used a carpentry & bamboo Silky saw for years. Still good & does a great cut, very fine teeth with very little effort & super quick & accurate (especially if you draw a line first!). Just have to remember it's a draw saw rather than a push saw. No fraying compared to using a jig saw (which I had to use for cutting portholes). I use the jig saw slowly as possible to reduce fraying. Probably will get a replacement blade soon since we have used it to repair 2 caravans & have almost replaced all (& I mean ALL) the ply on a third van. I imagine the Bahco would be good too, very good quality tools as well. www.arborlab.com.au/index.htmRob |
|
|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Feb 29, 2012 23:00:13 GMT 10
Thanks everyone. I knew about scoring the ply but just forgot all about it. It has been at least 10 years since I did any such work.
|
|
|
|
Post by humpty2 on Mar 1, 2012 14:41:37 GMT 10
How about using the Jigsaw with a fine blade...........and cutting from the 'backside' of the job. That way if there is any fraying it won't be on the face side of the job.
|
|
|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Mar 5, 2012 12:12:10 GMT 10
I seem to make a mess with a jigsaw Humpty. I have bought a Bahco Profcut laminator - it wasn't $30 though.... $55. Everything is expensive in the West. I got some 1mm metal cutting discs for my grinder as well. All I need now is the ply and I am in business.... its on order.
|
|
|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Mar 18, 2012 15:28:46 GMT 10
Started cutting today. The grinder came up trumps for manoeuvrability but the Bahco Profcut laminator for a very straight, fine cut. It is a very good handsaw. As far as speed they are about equal believe it or not. Thanks everyone.
|
|
third time lucky? please be carefull with that thing, sounds to me like it has a mind of it's own.
