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Post by frankidownunder on Sept 25, 2009 21:45:42 GMT 10
Trying to remember back 50 odd years, PU, I think ,stands for pick up, where you could connect a record turntable to so you could play records through the radio, the switch cut out the tuner part and only the amplifier part of the radio was working.
A and E stand for Antenna and Earth, I used to have an outside antenna some 30 feet long, could listen to BBC on short wave in those days.
Sure I'm right about PU, does anyone else remember?.
Frankidownunder.
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Post by myvan on Sept 25, 2009 22:09:55 GMT 10
I asked my husband and he says thats right
PU is pick up etc
He use to have a radio with an input for a Pick up
KJL
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Post by Franklin1 on Sept 25, 2009 22:34:52 GMT 10
Hi Dave, are you sure the model no. is 11-31? Because this link only shows that Kriesler model series going up to 11-13 in 1946... www.keypoint.com.au/~pauledgr/Kriesler.pdf (see Page 3) From what I can see on the internet, the PU is as frankidownunder says. All I know about this topic is that if you have three wires and you take one away, you have a wireless  [Yeah...yeah...I know...back in the corner facing the wall  ]cheers, Al. |
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Post by humpyboy on Sept 25, 2009 23:19:58 GMT 10
Hey AL, would you not need to take away all three wires to make it a wireless  , if you left even one that would at the least make it a wire ;D |
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Post by minicamper on Sept 29, 2009 12:31:03 GMT 10
Hi Dave.
The comments made so far are correct.
PU is normally a pickup and you should find that one of the dials switches from SW/MW/LW (not necessarily all three) and the PU. Which in some models allows an external source to be added.
A IS for aerial - there are two possibilities here.
Depending on it's age/model, it may have an internal iron rod antenna as part of the circuit, a long rod about 15-20cms long, with coiled wire covering it. If it does, then the A would be for a booster aerial wire. If it does not have one, then the A is for the only aerial and it will not pick up a signal without something connected. All you need is a length of single strand wire, the longer the better.
The E is for earth and depends on the radio. Many will work fine without any connection. Is this a mains only or AC/DC or DC only radio?
You need to be careful irrespective when turning it on. If you can take the chassis out of the case and take a clear photo of the top of the chassis where the valves are, then more importantly, the underside. I can tell you a bit more.
Cheers
Chris
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2009 20:03:15 GMT 10
 G'Day Dave Use a long wooden stick when ya turn it on ...... wood is a good insulator and the worst ya can do is set fire to the stick... I have an 'Astor" radio from around the same era in "rosie". AM only and worked / sounded fine with nice tone until i mounted it up on the wall  Once i fixed it to the wall the old valves set up a "drone" which gradually gets the whole side of the old van .."Humming".... Can be annoying at times but then again so can only being able to pick up the horse races and bugger all else on the weekend . Reddo
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Post by minicamper on Oct 7, 2009 6:33:40 GMT 10
Dave,
if it's humming only and getting louder and louder, something is wrong, don't turn it on again. It's usually because the circuit is drawing too much from the transformer. It will more than likely need to have new capacitors put through it as a start, probably other work too. They almost all do need this as the old cardboard and wax one's die, then get hot and leak the wax. If you can be bothered, pull the chassis from the case and take two pics, one of the top and one of the underside and I can tell you from that.
The case is definitely plastic. Bakelite stopped being used after the war in the 50's. This is a 60's Kriesler radio by the looks of it.
Cheers
Chris
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Post by Deleted on Oct 8, 2009 18:05:42 GMT 10
Hiya Dave.. All the humming is just the transformer. It does it immediately i turn it on. Heat is not an issue. I have grown to enjoy the noise .. or is that "endure'. It gives the whole van that 50s broadcast atmosphere..... No fires yet... been tempted to give it to someone to yank its gizzards out and convert to AM/FM keeping the original dial and knobs and maybe discreetly slot a CD in through the top of it as well.  ;D ;D As AC/DC once said... " its long hole in the top if ya wanna rock and roll"......ummmm... no wait a minute... its...... ummm.. i'll get back to ya shortly....  No go out and plug the bloody thing in ya big nancy... its only electricity. .. , Silent, tasteless, colourless, odourless and .. lethal. Reddo |
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Post by minicamper on Oct 9, 2009 6:49:41 GMT 10
Hi Dave, Despite Reddo's "tongue in cheek" encouragement (read you're the one that'll get zapped, not me or him ;D) On this occasion, he looks to be right A radio in good nick will make a slight hum on start up and it should not be audible once the valves warm and a signal is received, sound produced. (unless you have a really bad/weak signal) If you still hear a loud hum or even worse a constant loud crackling AND: - You're not near any modern electrical motors
- You have no light dimmers in operation
- You are not running a microwave at the time
Turn it off. The underneath of this chassis looks very good, clean and intact. From what i can see, the old wax capacitors are all in tact (but still should be replaced sometime). it looks like it has had some work at some time as it appears that the electrolytics (at least thats what they appear to be, I can't read the writing) are newish (white things) If you have access to a compressor carefully give a blow over the top of the chassis to get all that dust off the transformer and valves. (transformer is on the square block on the right of the pic) Be careful not to BLAST the transformer side on, or you may separate the insulation layers of the winding. Reddo is right on the heat part. Valves do give off heat, that's normal. You can plug it in, even with it out of the chassis as is, but put it on a wooden table, not steel bench and DO NOT hold the chassis anywhere. Turn the on switch on before plugging in and fit the tuning knob so you can adjust it. The reason why is: This unit is not earthed (hence the two core lead and E socket at the back) so if there is a problem with a leakage to the chassis, you hold it, you become the earth. Easiest way to fix this once you know it's okey dokey working, is to have a three core power lead attached, the earth lead attached the chassis, makes the E socket redundant. Send me a pm with the results..... Cheers Chris PS - disclaimer - I'm not an electrician, just a radio enthusiast. If you're at all worried, don't do it. I have nothing worth suing for! ;D |
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, if you left even one that would at the least make it a wire ;D
