|
|
Post by smiles on Mar 17, 2009 21:58:08 GMT 10
Hi all
We have an old table with great red laminex (bought by chance from a VVer) & we want to use it in a van. Does anyone know if there is a solvent that will loosen the contact glue between old laminex and wood, so the laminex can be reused? Were the old glues water based ? Does old laminex go brittle with age? What is the best glue for reusing the laminex, especially so water doesn't affect it? Sikaflex? better glues than that?
thanks
Cathie & Rob
|
|
|
|
Post by Franklin1 on Mar 20, 2009 9:45:54 GMT 10
G'day smiles, Having spent a number of hours trying to do what you're talking about, I came up with a handy scientific calculation for the job... Subtract your age from 100. If your answer is LESS than 50 then you do not have enough years left to be able to do it!   I've given up. No amount of hot water, cold water, sawing, etc could get the laminex layer off the timber...  Laminex in the old days was a lot thicker than today's product, but it will still split or crack if you pull on it too hard. Not necessarily brittle, but still fragile. The only glue tried-and-tested for laminex from Day1 is the contact adhesive glue. Once it's stuck and dried, only dynamite will shift it. Good luck if you attempt the job. Better you should go caravanning instead...much less frustrating. ;D cheers, Al. |
|
|
|
Post by kingy on Mar 20, 2009 10:07:44 GMT 10
Have'nt tried it myself, but have been told that a heat gun (not too hot) will soften the glue enough to seperate the two - maybe worth a try  Kingy |
|
|
|
Post by minicamper on Mar 20, 2009 12:48:39 GMT 10
Hi Smiles, It depends on the table construction, but the laminex is usually attached to a thin layer of ply or similar that is bonded to the heavier table construction. Every table i pulled apart has had this separate, but i've never got (nor had to ) remove the printed layer pattern off that last thin bit. Its been quite easy with every table where the plywood construction has delaminated from moisture. Thing is, im pretty sure that laminex does not like water on its underside (not normally a problem as its glued down) so bare that in mind. The alternative, find a company with a thicknesser planer (eg furniture construction company) and get them to plane the backing off. They should be able to go down to a few mm. If they'll help that is...  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 20, 2009 13:23:24 GMT 10
Hi Chris...
"The alternative, find a company with a thicknesser planer (eg furniture construction company) and get them to plane the backing off. They should be able to go down to a few mm. If they'll help that is... ".
I tried getting a local mill to run some recycled oregon through their thicknesser. They said they would consider it but where paranoid about nails that may still be hidden in the timber.
They also said they would charge to run a metal detector over the timber.
Cant really blame em when you consider what it costs to either get the blades sharpened or worse still... replaced due to bouncing off a foreign metal object at 8000 rpm.
I realise that laminex on a table top would probably not have nails in it Smiles .but be prepared for "rejection" when you do find someone with a thicknesser.
Reddo
|
|
|
|
Post by smiles on Mar 20, 2009 15:40:57 GMT 10
We'll pull the chrome edging off the table & see what's happening with all the layers, thanks minicamper.
Next thought then is that we don't worry about taking the wooden back off the laminex table (it's not delaminating & is all in good nick), if the laminex doesn't come away with its ply layer easily from the wood.
Just saw the laminex table up, wooden back n all, into pieces suitable for the van for small table, benchtop, etc then either reinforce with glued wooden laths under bottom edges then reuse chrome strip screwed around the edges. Whadya rekon?
Might be a bit heftier than straight laminex but so what.
What's the best method of cutting then? Circular saw, cutting from the wooden side down to prevent chipping of the laminex or fine jigsaw blade cutting from behind as well?
|
|
|
|
Post by sportsman 1 on Mar 20, 2009 15:59:42 GMT 10
Just what I was thinking Smiles,
If you are replacing benchtops, table, etc just remove the old, cut the replacement top to the size you want, fit it and replace the edging, etc to suit.
That is what I am going to do when I find a yellow Laminex table!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Regards cutting, I think the secret is to go slow if possible. I cut some recently on a bandsaw with the Laminex up (this means the blade goes through the Laminex first and then the timber, the timber behind it provides support) and finished with a lovely sharp edge.
Good luck, Leigh.
|
|
|
|
Post by rodw66 on Mar 27, 2009 19:30:39 GMT 10
Hi there, smiles, we use 901 cleaner/thinner (Anchor Weld product) available at cabinet maker suppliers. The trick is to get it between the laminex and the wood and just keep pouring thinners on it asyou watch the glue dissolve, gentley prying the two apart. I use a sauce bottle and a splatula to work the edge appart,and so on. Your laminex looks like its glue has alreay began to dissolve and with a little paience and thinners youll get there! good luck Rod.
|
|
|
|
Post by beetlesbailey on Apr 15, 2009 18:30:07 GMT 10
As a chippy I would get a clothes iron on a peice of cloth ( t shirt) and slowly heat the laminex fom the top which melts the glue and frees the laminex.
Careful not too put too much heat on one place and dont pull too hard in one place either.
I reckon if you can get it started put some solvent in the gap and try both methods.
An old knife slipped between would help too.
I got in deep brown when I used the wife's good iron and it spewed old glue onto her clothes next time she used it.
I "inherited" the offending iron for laminex work and still have it 20 years later but she has gone.
Good luck, Beetles
|
|
|
|
Post by minicamper on Apr 16, 2009 7:41:08 GMT 10
Hey Smiles...
The cutting options.....
Basically if you don't go the removal route (although there seems to be a few good ideas here) cutting is easy, BUT, you MUST make sure of the blade direction...
What I mean here is that most jigsaws and circular saws (in standard form) cut on the upstroke, that is they cut from underneath first and this causes lifting of timber fibres and in the case of melamine and laminex, chipping.
I have a Triton set up, where the saw is made into a table saw (saw is upside down) and therefore, as you cut, the saw actually cuts on the down stroke, with my laminex surface face up, i can see what happening and i get no chips.
Two things you can do. If using a jigsaw, you can get blades with teeth for downward cutting (and laminex blades), or, in both cases, work with the good surface face down if still cutting on the upstroke (does that make sense)?
I have resorted to using old tables with the laminex and just the thin underply left attached, it only adds a few mm's to the overall height.
Cheers
Chris
|
|
