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Post by monkeygully on Jul 31, 2007 16:00:17 GMT 10
Hi Everyone
I have decided that in an ideal world I would replace the walls of my bond wood van. At present they made from a are single thickness sheet and have a substantial amount of rot along the bottom.
I was thinking of making a sandwich of two thinner ply sheets (4mm?) with the builders styrofoam as suggested in the forum. But what concerns me is the thicknesses required to be structurally stable - I should add that the hardwood frame has been inspected and seems to be in good condition. Or would it be better to simply replace with the single thickness ply? It seems that this would be a heavier option and possibly not as comfortable with temperature extremes...
What are your thoughts??
All the best
Dan
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Post by Roehm3108 on Jul 31, 2007 18:00:24 GMT 10
Hi Dan
Had a look at the ebay pics of your van - looks like it is double skinned (bondwood lining and exterior, with framing in between) cos I couldn't see and internal framing. If it is double skinned, would you need to replace both inside and outside walls? Perhaps you could simply remove the exterior ply, go down to the fruitshop and bot those styrofoam cartons and line the walls with it before re-lining the outside skin. You may need some of that bubble wrap look insulation for the bendy bits. That would give great insulation. If it IS single skin, why not just re-skin the exterior in ply the same thickness as what is there already, insert the suggested insulation as mentioned above wherever you can do it (you may not be able to do the cupboards without some effort) and then line the interior with, as you suggest, the 4 mm ply to give you the double skin.
I think that if you do what you suggest (making your own sandwich insulated ply panels) would create problems - you would not be able to bend the panel, and also, your van will be slightly wider than before which could create problems around your windows and door.
If your frame is OK, why not make it easy on yourself and work around it as I suggested?
Hope that helps
Ray
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Post by monkeygully on Jul 31, 2007 18:53:20 GMT 10
Hi Ray
The van is definitely single skin as I have pushed my finger straight through a rotten section... it would be a buch better option replacing with existing thickness but then will loose the insulating factor - I wonder how much of a benefit this added insulation would be anywayse. The roof is insulated, so thats one thing i guess... perhaps if I rub back the existing paintwork and find the original joins that would be an easier way to pull out old sections and replace with new.
Cheers
Dan
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Post by Roehm3108 on Jul 31, 2007 19:57:56 GMT 10
Hi Dan I guess if you wanted to insulate, you could go with what I suggested about insulating and then lining from the inside in those areas where the single skin is visible. My Properts have single skins, and I lined the bedroom area of the first one in the stuff they use for lining boats, which you can get from Bunnings. The other one has carpet lining which is also quite good. That way you don't get a cold bum when you touch the sides in your bed!!!  You might find that if the roof is insulated then that may be enough anyway. Wait till you get some more responses - there might be some other ideas forth-coming. All the best Ray |
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Post by monkeygully on Aug 4, 2007 8:15:52 GMT 10
We have decided to replace walls with existing thickness 9mm 5ply. Will be a mission, but Im looking forward to it. We have to do all of the work outside aswell as we don't have any undercover space... Do you have a preference for enamel paint over acrylic? Perhaps the outdoor painting conditions may effect which type of paint we use?
Cheers
Dan
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Post by Franklin1 on Aug 4, 2007 12:52:04 GMT 10
Dan, when you say "existing thickness 9mm 5ply", is that the thickness of the ply on the walls at the moment? If so, Wow! Both my vans have outer skins of 5mm thickness with no internal lining, nor insulation. Using 9mm thick ply seems overkill, in my opinion, and is adding additional (unnecessary?) weight to the finished product. An extra jumper bought from the Op Shop for a couple of dollars might be the cheaper option  (You don't want your grandparents to think you're a real "sook" do ya? ;D [ "Son, in our day we had to walk 10 miles to school in bare feet during the middle of winter...blah blah"]) On the subject of paint for exterior plywood, these are my thoughts... In the 18 months that I've been a member of this forum, this question comes up every now and then, and I've read of those that swear by the two-pack poly treatment; those that promote the enamel option, and those that do something else. So what is the "truth"? Well, you can be guided by technical information such as on this website... esvc000102.bne102u.server-web.com/FinishesExterior.html (make sure you also read the marine plywood link on the left as well), ...or you can just paint with whatever you like, providing you consider the following points: 1. Place of storage... outside unprotected, or inside under cover 2. Temperature ranges for your location (both day/night ranges, and seasonal winter versus summer ranges) 3. Rainfall/humidity levels for your area. If you live in extreme ranges for 1,2,or 3 above, just commit yourself to more frequent re-painting in the coming years. The biggest killer of plywood is allowing moisture to get in to the layers and loosen the glue-bond holding them together. Hope this helps, and good luck with the resto. cheers, Al. |
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Post by Geoff & Jude on Aug 4, 2007 13:48:22 GMT 10
hi dan
before you fit the panels to the van, consider applying a moisture retardant/anti rot solution to the cut edges of the ply.
this will help to prolong the life of the skin.
when i rebuilt the framework of our van, before i fitted the outside panels i painted anti rot on all the framework then painted the frame with old leftover paint to protect it from moisture.
geoff 'n jude
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Post by retro1 on Aug 5, 2007 0:25:51 GMT 10
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Post by monkeygully on Aug 6, 2007 12:20:31 GMT 10
Hi Guys - thanks for all your info. Fantastic!
Yes, the existing thickness is 9mm, hence the move towards replacing with that thickness. I wanted to go lighter but the walls dont have any framework save around the edges so it seems as though the thickness of the ply is the main structural support. The cabinets on the inside are all fixed directly to the wall aswell so I suppose they would also offer a bit in terms of support...
Do you think there is any advantage using 5 ply over 3 ply?
Thanks heaps!
Dan
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2007 12:54:32 GMT 10
Hi Dan
5 ply will give better insulating qualitys. wood is a very good insulation medium. cool in summer and retains heat inside in the winter.
I wouldnt go any thinner than 5 ply if you are going to screw cupboards to it. I used 12mm thick ply for the sides of my TD and still managed to poke screw ends through it while constructing it.
As already mentioned , slop plenty of paint onj it and all cut edges while constructing the sides.
Definitely make sure it is under cover when completed. Extremes of heat can do just as much damage as heavy rainfall and dampness.
Stick with it mate. Its all good fun.
Reddo
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Post by frankidownunder on Aug 7, 2007 22:52:36 GMT 10
Hi dan,
a few hints re replacing your plywood sides, keep to the original thickness and use either marine or external ply, glue all framework back in place, ditto cupboard structure to sides and floor. this is how the designers take care of the torsional stresses in the van when it is being towed. doing this retains the original strength in the structure.
Best of luck with your project, as Reddo says, it's all good fun.
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