Re cutting of ply

[gilbert]

Hi can any one tell me the best method to cut 4 mm and 9 mm ply with out splintering the edges as I have to cut the hole out for the globetrotter one piece back window
Thank you

[Deleted]

May 22, 2014 14:51:11 GMT 10 gilbert said:

Hi can any one tell me the best method to cut 4 mm and 9 mm ply with out splintering the edges as I have to cut the hole out for the globetrotter one piece back window
Thank you

Hi Gilbert.
Mark out the hole in the ply from the inside of the sheet and cut it out. A jigsaw cuts on the up stock .. so the splintery bits will be on the inside where you don't see it.
The outside should be left with a clean cut.
Other thought is that if it does splinter just a little bit around the edges the frame of the window .. or the rubber "H" section used to fit the window will cover the ragged edges.
Don't forget to "Butter" the cut end grain of the ply liberally with oil based primer or Bondcrete before applying a primer / sealer / undercoat and then 2 top coats of the finish colour out to about 100mm around the opening before you fit the window. If you fit the window without any form of sealer around the opening it will be rotted out in 12 months.
Happy Hacking!!
Reddo

[greedy53]

this mite sound funny i use my 4 inch grinder like a saw, i have made a work top using some scrap timber and cut a hole with my trusty jig saw than i fitted my grinder with 1mm disc into it like a saw from underneath, than i can run ply through it and every cut looks factory circles i'm not sure about,i did use a metal blade in the jig saw it cut cleaner oh i nearly forgot i can fit my jigsaw blades upside down and it cuts on the down stroke
hAPPY SAWING

[2up]

Hi Gilbert, set up guides and use a router, clean as a whistle..........

[Franklin1]

Gilbert, I've used Oz-made exterior grade plywood with B-B grade facings throughout my project van. The exterior grade has hoop pine on the top and bottom surfaces, which is a reasonably soft softwood. I've cut the majority of my ply using a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade in it. Along the grain, the cuts have very finely furred edges which are sanded smooth quite easily. Across the grain, the blade will produce a slightly coarser cut, and splinter the edge of the cut by up to a millimetre. But I can sand those cuts back fairly smoothly as well, leaving just the occasional chipped appearance along the cut.

I've found that not rushing the jigsaw through the cut helps to minimise the damage on the cut edge. Not rushing and not having the jigsaw speed too high works wonders for me.

My metal blades allow me to cut around a radius down to 40mm. If the radius is smaller than that, I have to switch to a scroll saw blade.

cheers,
Al.

[Jennison]

I have been told you also can apply masking tape on the ply, mark your cut/ pencil line on the tape and saw thru the tape and ply together .... No splintering
Jenno

[gilbert]

Thank you everyone for your help very much appreciated.