Towed Vehicle modfications???

[oldford]

I wish to tow a 1960 -1975 Austin Mini Cooper behind my 1973 Travco 270 Motor Home. I want to tow it on all four wheels and NOT use a tow dolly or trailer. What do I have to do to the transaxle to insure there is no damage to the engine and/or transaxle while towing. Several companies sell a transmission oil pump for more modern front wheel drive cars. I an not sure what to do about the older vehicles. I figured someone in Australia had crossed this bridge since the Minis are plentiful there.

If I could figure out how to insert a photo, I would include a photo of the motor home.

Thank you

[e-mail]
Missouri, USA

[Deleted]

Hi Oldford
I once seen a mini moke that was carried in the rear of a converted Bedford bus. The bus was a front engined model.
The moke with windscreen folded down fitted in a compartment under the double bed .
A ramp folded up against the rear of the bus.

Sorry i cant give you any advice and. Please dont cut the roof off your beautifull mini cooper.

Reddo - Newcastle New South Wales.
P.S......Brother has 3 MGs. A supercharged TC, A V8 MGB Coupe and a TA Drop head coupe Tickford.

[Roehm3108]

Hi Oldfield. Will you be reading this yesterday, because of the International dateline?
Can't say that in all my travels around this great land, I have ever seen what you are proposing. I would have thought that it would be more trouble than it is worth. Somehow you would need to set the front wheels rigid besides having to keep things cool up there. I would then be concerned about the abuse the tyres would get, when turning a corner without the front wheels turning. Wouldn't that really score the tread? They make some terrific little dolly wheels here in Oz and I am sure you would have ones just as compact and easy to load onto and off.
Will be interested to hear what you end up doing about your little dilemma.
Cheers from Downunder
Ray

[ANDREW]

Excuse my ignorance, but is this a problem only with front wheel drive cars?
I used to frequently tow cars on an A-Frame with no problems over thousands of km.
You don't want to lock the steerers, keep them unlocked and they follow nicely around the corners perfectly. On my VW beetle I just left it neutral, on the Suzuki 4WD I also put the transfer box to neutral. Legally speaking, in this state you are supposed to have a licensed driver sitting in the car also, but I never bothered as I was by myself. Anyway what are is the so-called driver going to do, read the newspaper?
Also you need to protect your headlights and grill with cardboard or something due to rocks from the tow vehicle.
However if this is a front wheel drive no-no, you may have to settle for fabricated dolly.
Good luck!
Andrew

[scootman]

If it was me. I'd take the easy path and put it on a small car trailer. Minis are small.

[Jim]

I'd agree with Scootman... Get a trailer.
It's not only the easy way but it makes a lot more sense when you take all state regulations into consideration.
Six states, six sets of variations of the rules.

Making a suitable coupling/A frame takes time and requires an engineer's certificate (It does in Oz and I can't believe the US would be any different in all states).

Time's have changed, what we did back then is not acceptable now...
(The damn phone company wants my DOB, my mother's maiden name and what I had for breakfast before I can ask a question about my account.)

Then you do the 'try it and see' thing with drive-line wear, vehicle tyres, gravel rash etc.

It can end up being cheaper to order a purpose built trailer, which not only protects the car from gravel rash, broken headlights and a radiator full of crap but also keeps the car stock standard and the rig complies with all state regulations.

It also avoids roadside discussions with Mr. PC (the one in the Panda car), or some road authority inspector (Again this is in Oz at any rate) who may require you to attend a 'very out of the way' Magistrates Court in 6 month's time (along with your engineer and expert witness, of course) if you feel the fine is unjustified.

The reason for a driver in the car being towed is the requirement for anything over 750 kg to have 'effective brakes'.
If you want to rig the brakes on the towed car to be effective when the brakes on the tow car are applied, good luck, a trailer is looking even cheaper.
If you argue the towed car brakes don't work without power assistance, Mr PC or RTA wins the argument anyway.

Go with scoot's idea and buy a trailer...

I can see it..
Cowling front with a flame over paint job..
Low profile Euro style with LED lights..
A low set alko axle with 17 inch Styleline mags running low profile tyres...
(Optional blue neons under are available but might be a little over the top)
10 inch electric brakes and swing up jockey..
Reverse lights with beeper and flood type work lights..
Storage for service items, jack, tools, fuel, whatever..
Self locking anti-theft coupling and wheel locks..
Lightweight slide-in self locking alum ramps..
Anchors positioned to 'quiklok' the car..

Wanna quote..?

[ANDREW]

Well, now that Jim has put in his $2 worth, I would have to agree!
Yes, it was along time ago I used the A-frame and things are tougher now legally.
While you get your trailer made, you might as well make provision to carry a little boat on top.
...Then you're ready for anything!

[Roehm3108]

I think we've left our American friend speechless or at least breathless (perhaps Seattle is in Missouri!!) I wonder if we have talked him out of towing the Mini???
Ray