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Power
Jan 17, 2006 15:23:35 GMT 10
Post by Scootmann on Jan 17, 2006 15:23:35 GMT 10
Hi all, heres another dumb question for you. Does the power inlet go on the left or right side of the van, looking at it from the front. Also , where do I put the hose drain for the sink, straight through the floor? and how long should I have the hose? Ta scootman
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Power
Jan 17, 2006 15:57:35 GMT 10
Post by belinda on Jan 17, 2006 15:57:35 GMT 10
Our power outlet is on the "drivers side" of the van and high enough for me to reach (just) without needing a step.
Something to think of when you do the wiring is to include a "cigarette lighter" outlet somewhere unobtrusive on the outside of the van. This would let you plug things like lights and other gadgets into your 12v system, and also a solar trickle charger to keep the battery charged up.
The sink and ice box drains go straight out the floor and down to about bucket-height off the ground.
Modern vans have long flexible hoses (like washing machine hoses) that connect into drains at the caravan park. I think this arrangement would be necessary if you had a mains-pressure water system that attaches to a tap. However, when you only have a 25-litre tank over the sink there isn't a big amount of water going down the drain. We find an old plastic bucket underneath is fine.
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Power
Jan 17, 2006 21:58:51 GMT 10
Post by retro1 on Jan 17, 2006 21:58:51 GMT 10
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Power
Jan 18, 2006 0:02:03 GMT 10
Post by Scootmann on Jan 18, 2006 0:02:03 GMT 10
Thanks Belinda and Retro. Ok heres one more stupid question. What is the best way to secure the van onto the actual trailer? Big bolts through the framing and through the metal? if so how many? Thanks scoot
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Power
Jan 18, 2006 0:03:25 GMT 10
Post by scootmann on Jan 18, 2006 0:03:25 GMT 10
Sorry one more question about the drain. IS there some sort of cap. that you plug the floor with while your towing? Thanks Scoot.
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Power
Jan 18, 2006 4:52:05 GMT 10
Post by belinda on Jan 18, 2006 4:52:05 GMT 10
On our van the drain is just a rubber pipe that goes straight down from the sink, through the cupboard and out the floor. The icebox drain is adjacent.
An external 240v outlet is an excellent idea. The other thing that our van doesn't have (but should) is a cutoff switch near the door so we don't have to disconnect the battery.
Our 12v system was greatly improved by getting a high-efficiency compact fluoro globe from the Rainbow Power Company. It gives fantastic light and doesn't drain the battery. You may want to look at what they have to offer when you are setting things up in your van.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Power
Jan 18, 2006 12:57:59 GMT 10
Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2006 12:57:59 GMT 10
Hey Scoot You have raised a good question about bolting the van body to the chassis. Heres a thought.......... I can feel another reddo headache coming on If i was in your position of building a van from scratch i would think seriously about making the body easily removable from the chassis. You could be real cunning and make a dual purpose trailer. If you use 4 cuphead coachbolts to secure the van to the chassis you could easily have a plug at the back to disconnect the tailliights etc. Then just undo the 4 bolts and lift the body off. You can drill the bolt holes in the storage space under the bed and seats so you dont end up with ugly boltheads sticking up through the floor where you walk.. Have a lightweight boxtrailer body made up that drops on your chassis and secures through the same bolt holes..... bingo .... instant box trailer. and only 1 rego. 8- Waddya reckon mate .... have i cracked another winner here of what Reddo - broadening his paradymes from the shed of invention.
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Power
Jan 18, 2006 14:42:19 GMT 10
Post by Scootmann on Jan 18, 2006 14:42:19 GMT 10
My Dearest Reddo. [glow=red,2,300]ARE YOU INSANE??[/glow]
As it is Im flat out screwing two bits of timber together without making things moredifficult for myself. But thanks for the info anyway. Scoot
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Power
Jan 18, 2006 17:07:00 GMT 10
Post by retro1 on Jan 18, 2006 17:07:00 GMT 10
My drain is the same (rubber pipe through the floor) but I have a screw conection on it for the hose if we ddecide to stay for a while. I don't cap it of when I'm driving as I use the sink for any left over ice as a sort of esky with rthe ice that remains from the freezer. A cap would be good though if you were going on dusty roads but you could always put the plug in. Post some picture of your progress Cheers retro1
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Jim
New Member
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Power
Jan 18, 2006 17:40:26 GMT 10
Post by Jim on Jan 18, 2006 17:40:26 GMT 10
If you're considering a 12 volt cigarette lighter outlet here's a couple of pictures of a neat socket that's good for fitting where it's not mounted on a metal base. As well as two spade terminals for power and earth return it also has a weatherproof plug to keep water, dirt, etc, out of the socket when it's not in use. It mounts in a 28mm (or 1 1/8" ) hole and two self tappers.
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John
Full Member
Posts: 267
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Power
Jan 19, 2006 10:42:19 GMT 10
Post by John on Jan 19, 2006 10:42:19 GMT 10
Is there any reason that the power inlets have to be at the top of the van? Does everyone do this by law (?) or is it an unwritten rule? Iwas hoping to hide my inlet behind the spare wheel, which obviously has enough room for access. Cheers, John
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Power
Jan 19, 2006 12:23:27 GMT 10
Post by bigdidda on Jan 19, 2006 12:23:27 GMT 10
John, I cannot see a problem with putting it down low. The Propert has it almost at the bottom of the van at the rear left side. The only reason against this as i can see is the socket could get full of muck if you went on bad roads but then the modern socket have a cover which usually clips shut when not in use. Reason they are up the top on most vans nowadays could be a safety issue. Dont know if this helps but best of luck anyway. regards don
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Jim
New Member
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Power
Jan 20, 2006 7:34:47 GMT 10
Post by Jim on Jan 20, 2006 7:34:47 GMT 10
John
This isn’t a complete requirement list, but for the positioning of 240 volt power inlets on a van, I don’t believe there is any requirement as to the lowest position (although it should be in a protected position within the bodywork and not, for example, hanging under the lower edge of a chassis rail).
Practicality says the power inlet should be in an “easy-to-get-at” location. On the off-side of the van is practical so you don’t have a cord hanging in an area where there is more people traffic or fouling an awning.
The power inlet and position does include.. A 15 amp inlet (larger earth pin) No more than 2.0 metres high. No less than 1.5 metres from a doorway. No less than 150mm from a window.
There's sometimes debate if a hatch is classified as a door or a window, but I’d see hatches as windows if you don’t normally walk through them (such as the rear hatch on a teardrop, for example).
You should check if an electrical safety certificate is needed to register the van. I believe most states, if not all, do require one.
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Power
Jan 20, 2006 9:11:35 GMT 10
Post by bigdidda on Jan 20, 2006 9:11:35 GMT 10
JBJ, Funny how different inspectors ask for different things. When the Prope was being blue slipped they were happy to take the number off the easily attached name plate and no permanently attached number required. My only problem was the number or lack of tail lights and how low they were. regards don
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Jim
New Member
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Power
Jan 20, 2006 15:41:35 GMT 10
Post by Jim on Jan 20, 2006 15:41:35 GMT 10
JBJ and BigD
Maybe it's another case of having a set of "rools" that are in place, like so many others, but no one is really aware of them because they rarely presents as a problem?
What happens then is because it's not mainsteam it gets lost in the system and overlooked. Vic vans are supposed to have a sticker.. They get one at some stage.. It falls off.. So.. What then.. ? Usually nothing.. If it's not on the radar as a problem why make waves.. Y'know?
But as a wise old codger said to me many many years ago when I first started work..
"If you're gunna cheat.. cheat proper.."
In other words.. Know the rules as well as you can, so you know how far the bending can go.
It took me about 25 years to realise the wisdom in his statement, but it finally sank in. (This message will self destruct in five seconds)
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Power
Jan 21, 2006 6:19:56 GMT 10
Post by belinda on Jan 21, 2006 6:19:56 GMT 10
Rob suggested another excellent reason why the 240v inlet is high in our van.
The outside connection point is adjacent to the inside light and power point. All the wiring is neatly encased in a corner of the cupboard and there is only about 30cm of wiring altogether.
cheers
Belinda
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