|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Feb 29, 2012 23:49:08 GMT 10
OK, the floor on my Olympic seems to be under control (I didn't get rid of the buckle in the fiberglass but I can live with that). Now I need to build 2 single beds, slightly larger than the original Olympic singles to fit our larger frames. I really have no idea about it and are tempted just to get someone to build them. Before I do that I want to at least investigate the idea. Any suggestions, examples, etc would be greatly appreciated. If there are any Perth (or surrounds.... I am in Wandering) people kind enough to meet and show me how they did it I would be greatly appreciative.
I was all for getting some ordinary beds and bolting them to the floor but my wife is scornful of this idea.... probably too heavy anyway.
cheers, Bill
|
|
|
|
Post by griffin on Mar 1, 2012 10:29:25 GMT 10
Hi takeiteasy
The previous owner of my Olympic converted it to single beds using old spring wire, steel frame beds. The frames were welded to an angle iron support which is bolted to the floor and the whole thing is really solid. The spring wire was too much for my back though and fitted ply a base after removing the springs.
Full access underneath for storage without disturbing the bed as it simply has what I guess you call a heavy material 'flounce' around the base to match the seat covers and we have bits and pieces in storage boxes that just slide under.
Works for us and I sleep like a log in the van.
George
|
|
|
|
Post by hilldweller on Mar 1, 2012 15:03:04 GMT 10
There are a few threads on this site with pics of some nice framing work - though I can't remember any offhand sorry and mine is not one of them - try the search function perhaps. I had to build all the beds/seat bases in the Caravelle starting from scratch, and knowing nothing, and my advice based on that would be don't over-engineer it. I was worried about them collapsing and as a result the first one I did is now ridiculously clunky. Each successive one got a bit lighter (and none show any signs of collapsing). I think with a bit more thought and skill they could be even lighter, and alot more elegant. Somewhere in the technical section there's a thread where I asked for advice on how to do the hinged lid and got some helpful replies.
Your van is f'glass isn't it? So is mine and to attach timber framing to the fibreglass I used Sikaflex glue, and fibreglass bandaging over the top where a good solid attachment was important. There may be other ways but it all seems pretty firm now and it looks as if it's more or less how it was done originally (I bought my van as a stripped out shell so there's a bit of guess work involved). Good luck with your van.
|
|
|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Mar 1, 2012 17:56:36 GMT 10
Thanks George and Hill. I will do a search.
|
|
|
|
Post by cruisindoug on Mar 1, 2012 19:59:09 GMT 10
G'day Bill I recently did some bed framing on our van, although to make singles into a double! Here's the link, reply 49You will be surprised how strong the small and light timber becomes when its constructed this way, I still think this frame is over engineered. It doesn't flex or move at all. Cheers Doug. |
|
|
|
Post by atouchofglass on Mar 1, 2012 20:44:04 GMT 10
|
|
|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Mar 2, 2012 15:37:30 GMT 10
Thanks Atog - It doesn't look too difficult.  |
|
|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Apr 1, 2012 9:03:43 GMT 10
Ok, to summarise the above - I need: 20x40mm battons and 6ml ply to make the frame. 6mm sounds quite thick Atog. Do you think 3mm would have the strength?
|
|
|
|
Post by atouchofglass on Apr 1, 2012 15:25:23 GMT 10
Hey Bill 4mm and a facing for the ply used on edge. That's the uprights. For the top of the singles I used 8mm (at least that's what it measures at including paint). So maybe it's 6mm. If you use thin ply for the tops it deforms and looks....sh.... you get the idea. From the factory the tops were built using 3mm and it was very untidy. When making the two pieces to go across the singles to make a huge double I used 12mm as it has to span the gap between them, unsupported. The very first post on my build shows how I used the ply. That is before I added the laminex facing on the upright ply. I painted the tops as laminate would be too slippery IMO. vintagecaravans.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=photo&action=display&thread=1473&page=1Also about half way down that first post you will see the original cabinet with the same wing/extention you mentioned in your other thread. The only other section I used 4mm was as a backing for all the vinyl pieces. Those I also painted in case of leaks. And it will leak   Cheers Atog |
|
|
|
Post by atouchofglass on Apr 1, 2012 15:28:43 GMT 10
|
|
|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Apr 1, 2012 19:19:31 GMT 10
Thanks Atog, I have decided to cut that extra bit off to make a retangular set of drawers and then build the beds right up to it.
I hope mine doesn't leak.
|
|
|
|
Post by takeiteasy on Apr 2, 2012 13:09:48 GMT 10
OK, I am doing some diagrams and making a materials list. For the upright side of the bed I am making a ladder like construction out of 20x40 battens, then screw/glue 4mm ply. One edge of this will secure to the floor. The end of the bed will just be a smaller version of the same. Here's the question. The side of the bed is 1860mm. It is only about 300mm high. I can have 6 x vertical battons 31cm apart or save a little weight and have 4 battons 46.5mm apart. 6 Battons @ 32mm apart sounds like over engineering to me. Opinions??
|
|
