Hi Guys,
Having read everyone's responses here, I can only add a few things and a summary.
I spend FAR too much time with one of my mates, a professional A grade mechanic and engine builder for over 30 years and every mechanical reference made here has been proven in his eyes. He has seen it all, damaged components, disolved natural rubber (in BSA's) etc.
E10 does run hotter, any vehicle that is already sailing close to the wind with it's cooling system will no doubt fail at some time. The newer the car, the more plastics used in mechanical functions, so the belief that "my car isn't old" is misguided. Almost every car pre 2000 will have some problem with it.
As many of you know, I bought a MK2 Jag (still at the panel beaters after being run off the freeway into a tree or three
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When it was rebuilt before i got it, some average choices were made that has made it very susceptible to average quality fuels.
Driving 140k's every day to and from work highlighted the following to me:
Shell - even on 98, the car still pinged when warm, fuel consumption increased. Fuels go "off" (you can smell the difference) within 3 weeks. Not worth the discount.
Caltex 98 - same issues with pinging, even worse fuel consumption
Mobil - when you can find 98 it's middle of the road with Shell and Caltex, their 95 is as bad as Shell.
United, Liberty and any other cheap brand you can think of in Vic, were hopeless, I was unable to accelerate with more than 1/3 to 1/2 throttle.
BP - the winner! The 95 is ok in cold weather (this is more of a problem with the set up of this car, than a general thing for others), 98, although more expensive, has little to no pinging at all, much better performance, runs cooler more mileage per tank.
With the Jag at the doctors, I've been driving older cars to get around, mostly the Mini. The extra $$ premium costs in such a small car is well worth it for the benefits of extra performance (very noticeable, after all, it's an 850!) better running and starting.
We probably should consider also that in the period when most of our favorite cars were new, the octane ratings of fuel were nowhere near what they are now. But, they also decoked engines, had REAL petrol, rebuilt engines at 30-40,000 miles, drove slower and different igntion settings.
Another thing to bare in mind is that some of the eariler fuel tank repair sets that you poured in and sloshed around, also react to ethanol and have been found to clog fuel lines as they break down.
As Secretary of the Model T Club, we have been keeping a close eye on this. Even the experts and motoring bodies can't or won't agree other than not to use it in older cars. Nobody however, says what an older car is. Modelt T's are basic in the extreme and will not tolerate even slightly off fuels, even with such low compression engines. With thermo syphon cooling, any extra running heat is immediately obvious.
The proof of the pudding is in the eating, with so many people experiencing problems, I urge everyone who is uncertain to avoid this stuff like the plague (whilst you can).
Make sure your cooling system is in tip top shape! One unintentional run on this stuff could be enough to push your car over the edge and this is often the death of most cast iron headed cars - believe me - I've seen it in person on the workshop floor. A good cooling system may just save your head!
The money saved on a years cheap fuel driving will rapidly vapourise when the mechanic takes the engine apart and hands you a repair bill.
Anyone in a 90's or early 2000's car could find themselves with a repair bill that exceeds the value of the car - even the wreckers don't want early 90's Commodores and Falcons etc now.
Cheap fuel is false economy. Yes towing a van uses more fuel, so compensate by lifting the right foot a little, take the time to enjoy the trip, and don't rush just to get somewhere.
Cheers
Chris
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