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Post by 66saint on May 17, 2005 10:32:37 GMT 10
Hi folks, Wonderful site! I was so excited to find it as I have recently acquired a '57 vintage van which is in pretty good condition, very original and nearly immaculate inside (will post some pix soon). Tow vehicle will probably be a '66 xp 2 door, the engine of which I am currently rebuilding...(not that I’m a fanatical ford fan). Vintage bikes are more my thing.
Anyway, I think I may have to replace some of the plywood outer shell and maybe some minor frame repairs due to it being a little soft. 1) Is it normal for the timber on the front and rear to be quite cardboard like to push, as if there is no support behind it? 2) What thickness marine ply is recommended on the outer shell? 3) Is bending it to shape a nightmare? 4)Are repairs to these things reasonably doable by a semi intelligent bone-head such as myself?
I have removed the metal protector sheets from the front to check for rot (all looks good!). The seals are hard but were working although will need replacing. Are there any tricks to keeping the water out from behind the sheets...Silicon perhaps???
Would love to get some feedback on the above questions from the veritable pit of knowledge that lurks beyond the screen!
Thanks
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Post by Tickos on May 17, 2005 20:11:31 GMT 10
Hi Highwayman Don't use silicone as it is a bugger to clean up and it doesn't paint well. Use mastic it cleans with turps and it stays flexiable and covers well with paint. I used 6mm marine ply to do repairs to my van and it bends easy with out much stress. Im a boffhead and I handled the repairs just measure twice before cutting Good luck Ticko's
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Post by Roehm3108 on May 17, 2005 21:37:03 GMT 10
Hi there, and welcome to the site. Lookin forward to seeing pics of your van on this site. The first place for any weakness/rot to set in is probably at the bottom front and rear ends, due to its being closest to the ground where all the water/muck kicks up. Doesn't mean it wont happen anywhere else, it just depends on how well the corners were sealed in the first place. Re the sponginess, check that you aren't pressing against an unframed area. It could be that the ply is only thin, (3 or 4 mm)and therefore gives that spongy feel when pressed. If it feels spongy against a framed area, then you would need to take a closer look under the ply, as it could mean that some of the framing has rot in it, which you would need to get at before it gets any worse. Getting ply to bend is not as difficult as it may first sound. I used 6mm ply on re-skinning the inner shell of my Propert and it followed the framing curve quite easily. And I have no tradesman experience whatsoever!!!! I agree with Tickos - don't use silicone, it's too messy to clean up and you can't paint over it. I use a thing called Ezycaulk Butyl Rubber sealant, used by a local caravan repairer. It is non-hardening, but forms a tough outer skin, which is water and dust proof. It can also be painted over. It's probably similar to what Tickos uses. Good luck Ray
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Post by 66saint on May 17, 2005 23:54:41 GMT 10
Thanks Ticko's and Ray, some good advise and well noted. I will have to get out of fiberglass boat mode when contemplating waterproofing with ply.
I look forward to any thoughts, comments and ideas from others.
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Post by type82e on May 22, 2005 7:46:29 GMT 10
whats the best glue to use when attaching the new skin to the vans marcel
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Post by Roehm3108 on May 22, 2005 15:08:12 GMT 10
Hi. I use one of the No More Nails derivatives. Ray
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