Hi there
I've done a lot of house restorations - doorways, fireplaces, etc. And you do run up against all kinds of finishes. This is what I learned from my Pa, and I hope the information below might be helpful to you.
What kind of Finish is It?If the finish of the wood you are considering “refreshing” is dull or has minor scratches but not badly cracked or blistered, try restoring it first. This may save a great deal of effort, time and money.
The first step in restoring a finish is to determine what type of finish you are working with. There are four common types of finishes:
1. Shellac
2. Lacquer
3. Varnish
4. Penetrating oil
The types of finish on the wood can be determined by the following steps. Work on a small, unnoticeable area of the finished piece:
- Dip a rag into denatured alcohol and rub it on the work piece. If the finish softens, it is a shellac finish.
- If denatured alcohol did not soften the finish but it turned white, it is probably a lacquer finish. Try rubbing the area with lacquer thinner. If the finish softens, it is a lacquer finish.
- If the finish did not soften with either denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner, it is probably varnish or a penetrating oil finish.
After determining the type of finish you are working with, remove all of the hardware. If you can't remove it, make sure it’s well covered or taped to protect it from the solvents you will be using. Then remove all dirt and old wax with turpentine.
Shellac and lacquer finishesThe easiest of the wood finishes to restore is the shellac finish. Denatured alcohol is the solvent for shellac, and most lacquer finishes can be restored by using lacquer thinner. The method of applications of the solvent depends on how poor the original finish is.
If the original finish is dull but not cracked, dip 000 steel wool (very fine non-soaping) into the appropriate solvent (either denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner depending on the type). Squeeze out excess and rub wood surface with light pressure. Work quickly since the finish will soften and get sticky.
Use quick, smooth strokes, always with the grain, smoothing out the surface as you go.
If the original surface is cracked (alligatored), literally brush on solvent and rapidly work it into the finish; as the finish softens, smooth it out with your brush.
Varnish finishBecause of the durable nature of varnish and the fact that there is no pure solvent for all varnishes, it is difficult to restore a varnish finish. But don’t despair – not all varnishes are the same.
Some varnish finishes can be reconditioned with a mixture of 3 parts boiled linseed oil and 1 part turpentine. Mix this solution well and apply it sparingly to the varnish with a cloth or grade 000 steel wool. This may work - it's worth a try.
Heat some water and pour into a cup or small can placed on a saucer or small pie tin. Shake the cleanser-conditioner and pour enough into the cup to cover surface of water. Do not stir.
Dip an old cloth into the oily layer floating on the surface of the hot water and apply this solution to a small area at a time. Keep excess moisture away from joints to prevent glue from softening.
Rub the surface with mixture. Use toothbrush on carvings and grooves. Dip 000 steel wool pad into oily layer and rub lightly with the wood grain to remove dirt if necessary.
Dip a clean cloth into clean warm water; wring and wipe surface. Finish by wiping the wood surface with a soft, dry cloth.
Discard the cleanser-conditioner that remains in the cup when it becomes cold. Do not reheat since it is flammable and will become gummy.
After cleaning old furniture that has dried out and has a low luster, use 0000 steel wool to apply a greaseless furniture cream that contains beeswax or apply a paste wax to replenish moisture and natural oils. On other old pieces, apply polish.
Penetrating oil finishesBecause these finishes have penetrated into the wood, they are difficult to remove. Restoration is often easiest to remove water spots, minor scratches and other faults. First, clean the surface with turpentine and 000 steel wool.
After surface has dried, reapply a coat of boiled linseed oil or penetrating oil.
If you want to, add a new coat of shellac or varnish followed by a coat of wax to protect the finished surface.
Cheers and good luck!
Seeshell
) it is a dry powder you mix with water to a paste and then just use it as you would a putty, easy to use and sands well, I was a bit unsure when I first saw it but gave it a go and will not use anything else now.
better pic here
