Post by Surf Tragic on Nov 25, 2017 20:46:03 GMT 10
This is all bearer timbers cut from my stock of dried hardwood that has been saved over the years
Every bearer has some rot in the ends so it is all coming out.
Wal Robinson presented me with the saw I am using here, it belonged to Ernie J Scott who was the Foreman at the Don factory, and was most probably used in the construction of this same van. This is real proof of its new life with me cutting repair pieces of studs for the walls.
The saw is as Wal gave it to me, is quite sharp, and cuts true, I thought it fitting to use it on this van which was built in 1948.
This gift is highly valued by me & can imagine it will be framed & hung with all the other memorabilia. Thanks again Wal.
At the back showing the bearers at the bottom edge fitted
Along the side bearer, with the lower end of the 1st stud renewed
Everything that unscrews inside has been dismantled, wheel arches taken out.
Am very pleased to get these lights, Wal Robinson has again helped out & sourced these appropriate era items for me, thanks a lot Wal.
If anyone else would like some, just PM me & I will give you Wals' contact details.
Post by Surf Tragic on Nov 26, 2017 20:34:19 GMT 10
The body is relatively easy to separate from the chassis, there's about 12 bolts to take out & that's all there is to it. I set up 4 purpose made steel stools, one to support each corner of the body, take the wheels & axle off, lower the chassis to the floor & slip it out!
There is a lot more support the Don needs when taking ply off, and so I repair about 1/4 of the van as I go, otherwise it would end up a pile of matchwood on the floor
Check your messages as I will send Wal Robinsons contact details for the tail-lights.
Post by Surf Tragic on Mar 25, 2018 19:35:12 GMT 10
With the 2018 Nationals so close there had to be quite a bit of cleaning up in the shed to make it safer to walk around, that is largely done and am back working on the van again.
This is how much the side has bowed out, every stud will be replaced. I am using Tassie Oak, having been told it is the same/similar as Victorian Ash when we used to buy in packs & resell, We harvrested Vic Ash ourselves for the Timber Mill at Mitta Mitta, stacked it for drying and processing into Kiln Dried, beautiful timber. The Tassie Oak was bought in, it has been straightened and still have a small pack of 135x19 in long lengths to 5.4m in stock, it is a delight to use. One has to be extra careful of the splinters & recently had one cut out at emergency, 1 suture, that's probably the 3rd in my lifetime so not too bad..... I couldn't get this one out, !!
The divider under the back seat needed re-skinning with ply, the frame was dismantled & re-used.
Test fitting the pre-made laminated ribs
These may be the only two interior ply panels that need renewing, they have rot and are badly buckled around the lower edges, the rot intrudes right into the interior.
This shows the timber support for the bunk Dad made for me, the van ozzes history/sentiment, memories aplenty, and makes it special to be renovating, thinking constantly of how my father fastened that piece on, & other bits, and here I am undoing the screws he used, I am keeping the pieces whether I re-use them or not. Of course I'm not sentimental!
I've never seen a Don with this much frame exposed. The back sheet had to come off too, it fell into two pieces, I was hoping to re-use it, but it was very brittle with unseen rot behind some strips where the sofa slides up & down.
The back stripped out, didn't know it would have to be this extensive.
you can feel the structure strengthening daily.
The support stools at each corner & more underneath have been levelled with a Laser before starting ply removal.
A lot more curved pieces have had to be made, the jig is getting plenty of use. I use a brad gun to hold the strips to the pyneboard jig then plenty of clamps, the brads do no harm & the finished rib is easy to pry off the jig, then cut the protruding brads off with small angle grinder. With boat building using ply that is to be polished, "plastic" brads are used, they sand off and are unseen when lacquered over, no rust! I used a sheet of Formply covered with a sheet of plastic over, screwed the forms/jigs on, duct tape around the curve, easy dismantling.
Post by Surf Tragic on Aug 21, 2018 20:17:34 GMT 10
After the Shed visit from members of the forum during the 2018 Nationals, I started on the van again & found this hidden around the side in a wall cavity, sadly, the sheet had to be removed Ray, it had rot around the edges !.
TRIED TO FIND A PANEL THAT WOULD STAY! ENJOY THE RESTORATION!
RAY (Roehm 3108)
It made me chuckle.
Found this in a cavity when dismantling, a receipt from the Border Store at Jingellic, part of the history that I wrote, we were there 12 months living in the van while Dad built a house for his bro-in-law, fires burnt all we owned that was stored in a shed on the property, it must have been about 1951, pity the date on the grocery docket is missing. Dads name is there though. The van & car survived.
Also in another wall cavity were 5 threepenny bits, valued at about $200, so got the purchace price of this van back !!!
Refurbished/new? Chassis ready for finishing coat of paint.
Post by Surf Tragic on Dec 17, 2020 13:56:52 GMT 10
Having been busy the last year or so, there hasn't been much done on the old 140, but have got a bit of a go-on recently. I want to use this van sometime and so I will have to push myself a lot more.
It is hard to fit ply on the inside of a curve, so I tried pre-bending it like this, poured boiling water on them a few times & let it soak with towels. It was still difficult to hold in place without using blocks & screws until the glue dried
To get the old cross beam out, it had to be cut in two pieces, so to get the new ones back in, they had to be cut in two also, I found it best to cut about 200mm off one end & thred the longest piece past the curved pieces, there was quite a bit of strain on some to force it into the notches. Then the 2nd piece is inserted, predrilled to screw both together to make a mini laminated beam. I forced the 2 beams apart with chisels, squirted plenty of glue between them, & screwed them together while they were propped from the floor to camber upward. After removing props, most times the sag disappeared & all timbers straightened & came into line very nicely. Mind you, there was lots of fitting, sawing, chiseling, fastening.
several places I had to fit 3 cross beams together all screwed & glued while propped up, left a day until glue dried, when the props came out, the beams were perfectly straight. All this didn't happen in a hurry
Post by Don Ricardo on Dec 22, 2020 11:59:18 GMT 10
Hi Surf Tragic,
I'm so pleased to see that you've started work on No 343 again. Each little step is a step closer to the finished project, but from your comments, some of the steps are quite complicated and complex to achieve. It's excellent that you've got the know how, creativity and skills to be able to achieve the result required.
I was really interested to see the technique you've used to straighten up the cross beams in the roof - a bit along the lines of the procedure we used to strengthen the floor in our 140, but your solution is much more elegant!
I was also really interested to see the size of the original beams in the roof of the van. They really are quite substantial and more heavy duty than I had anticipated, although thinking about it...I've climbed all over the roof of our van when painting the roof and there's never been any sign of movement. Just as well, or else I might have been up for a task like the one you're tackling at the moment. (PS I don't climb over the roof now - I work from each side or through the hatch! Just thought I should clarify... )
I will look forward to further instalments of the story.
A birds eye view, this feels very solid now. lots of humps to plane off the ribs that run from front to back, also, hollows filled with thin strips of timber glued & nailed, then trimmed with hand plane. I like using the hand plane as
there's more control, much like "fairing" a boat, not only are straightedges used across from side to side, but the eye is used finally to see if it's 'fair', or looking good. A straightedge was used underneath so the ceiling will be all in line too
Quite a few pieces had to be replaced, band-sawn to shape & fastened under the ribs, which are still very solid.