Surf Tragic's Don 120

[Surf Tragic]

Hi dosse,

Great to know you have one also, I will PM you later, sure to need quite a bit of advice with so much stuff missing, thanks, Ron.

Bluetangjo.

Jo, theres nothing wrong with your eyes, and,

everone please note, they will all have to be reloaded, I made a mistake in Photobucket & Don Ricardo is working on it for me.

Could be 2 weeks before I can re-do it as I am away til the 21st, and it is difficult for me to access the web where I will be, or it could be as soon as tonight

Cheers, ST.

[sutcac]

.....................Hey Dave ....................didn't someone say that Dons were ..............

.....................................OVER RATED

[Don Ricardo]

Hi Sutcac,

I believe someone was heard to say something like that...but then everyone is entitled to be wrong once in a while. ;D ;D ;D

Don Ricardo

[Surf Tragic]

This is great to see, window frame completely rotted out , but directly behind it, the main body is untouched ;D ;D & still has pink primer , hopefully not the red lead So minor repair here.

Luckily my daughter does leadlighting, & 3 windows need repair, so am in luck there

The layers of caked on paint has done a great job in preserving the structure. Even though the van is pretty grotty outside,I wont wash it all down, think it mightnt do the timber any good, it'll all come off later with the paint.

ST.

[Surf Tragic]

It's been interesting to see how the Don has been assembled all those years ago, not one of the cup head bolts gave any bother after spraying them days before with CRC. Had to make 3 more stands to support the body, but time well spent as I can use them again when I get my 140 thats out there somewhere ;D ;D

Dismantled the jockey wheel assembly, another work of art, one of the 'Don' partners was an Engineer I believe, so all this stuff looks like it was made 'inhouse', with a small bearing, large cotter pin to hold the wheel on fascinating stuff

Took the wheels off & slid the chassis out




Whole chassis & fittings look in very good order, the steel dimension looks very small but evidently does the job, its not RHS, but 2 steel angles welded together to make the box section, making it 55 x 55. Bit different to the mod vans with 150 x 50

No doubt the dropped axle compensated for the height of the 16 inch wheels.

The main axle has a bend in it, looks like it has been abused ;D

All the essentials are well greased.



Lifting the body high will make it easier to access all the bottom plates where the majority of work will be, also leveled it finally with shims as best I could.

It is pretty critical to have it 'in wind' or without any twist in the body shell while the refit is being done, no sags in the floor etc.

The rot is extensive, so will keep dismantling til its all found , & only then can the renewing begin , that will be the day the real fun starts ;D ;D ;D

[Don Ricardo]

Hey Ron,

Nice work there. You're obviously making good progress. Interesting to see the body off the chassis. That's how they were made as far as I can tell from the factory photos under DHL. Other vans had the framework built on the chassis, and then the rest was added.

Where are the main rot issues showing up?

Don Ricardo

[Surf Tragic]

Yes Don R.

I looked at the assembly line in the Don factory & looks similar to what I'm doing, I like the idea & it's a very clean & tidy set-up.

The rot is into the bottom plate starting at the front of the wheel arch on the LHS, across the doorway including the bottom of the door frame, so that has to be completely re-done, then to the front LH corner. It then starts at the RHS front corner & goes nearly to the back RH corner, the RHS wheel arch is a mess including the ends of the floor boards. There is kg's of white bog trowelled in all along the bottom side there, and patches of ply nailed over it all.

So all the bottom plates need replacing except the back one.

I would say all the outer wall sheets will be coming off, as I want to access the fastenings of the stabilizing legs, they must come off & be reconditioned, & they need a different form fo fastening to the botttom plate, will explain later.

I am amazed with the numerous layers of paint, anyone got advise on the best way to get it off, I can remember Dad using a blow-torch & scraper. I have tried paint remover and done 6 coats, & theres still more layers !!!

ST.

[Don Ricardo]

Hi Ron,

Interesting to hear about the location of the rot in your van. From memory the rot in Dosse's and Austin125's respective Dons was in the upper walls and the roof near the highest part of the curve of the wall, so I guess the fact you haven't found any there shows that the roof over the van at Eildon did not too bad a job at protecting the upper body. Cobber's Don has a bit more damage down near the bottom of the body, but partly it appears because some of the cladding put on the van to protect it actually directed the moisture into the frame.

Regarding the paint issue: Dons have become famous - or perhaps I should say 'infamous' - on the forum for their paintwork, and more particularly the difficulty of removing it! Mark T started the following thread seeking advice on the best way to tackle it. If you read through it you will get some feel for what techniques work and which don't, and which methods to avoid like the plague. I think the main conclusion is that whatever method you use involves a lot of elbow grease. Somewhere in the middle of the thread is some information about the painting techniques and type of paint used by Don, which explains why the stuff is so hard to get off!!

vintagecaravans.proboards30.com/index.cgi?board=technicalstuffboard&action=display&thread=1553&page=3

I personally think that the paintwork on the 1934-1956 series Dons, and the fact that it sticks like glue, partly explains why there are still quite a few around.

Anyway l wish you lots of success with your project (and the paintwork!),

Don Ricardo

[Surf Tragic]

Don Ricardo, Thanks for that site on the paint removal, sounds like flames of fire is the go

Dossies' van was a major effort, I had a good look at that site too, & don't know which is worse, rot in the top or the bearers This van is very sound from the floor up.

Theres no doubt all the bearers have to be replaced, some floorboards too, and all the outer sheeting will have to come off to be able to bolt the lot together, cant get out of it, and of course some sheets will have to be replaced 'cos of the bottom 50mm missing. .

Here's what the worst of it looks like.



Rear RH corner



This is the back of the wheel arch on RHS, I have dug out heaps of bog, blocks of timber nailed in, ply was fitted over all this & then painted



Front of whell arch on RHS, main cross member/bearer eaten away, all cross bearers are the same.



Front RH corner

[Surf Tragic]

Needs a new Door frame too, coupla floor boards .

Its a big job & I need something like this to do, for years if need be, but must say here, that I am 1/2 way through building a wooden boat, so will do a bit on each when I feel like it. ;D ;D

Both projects are great conversation pieces .

[Surf Tragic]

It must be 8 weeks since I took off for a break, but since coming home there has been some progress

After all the steel came off, wind down legs, step, wheels, jockey wheel & the chassis, an email to the sandblaster with a picture of the lot, got me a return email with a price of 'about $90' ;D, so guess I won't be scraping it off by hand



Most of the rotted bearers have been taken out, the best method seemed to be cutting all the nails off & sliding the pieces out, so many hours of careful work in that. Had to take out one wheel arch. It amazes me the amount of nails & how well they still grip I try & imagine someone in the Don factory all those years ago hammering them in





This photo without the flash shows daylight where all the bearers have been taken out. So far all this has been very satisfying work. The front & back bearers will be renewed after all the others are done otherwise there's nothing left to prop the shell up, the sides are floating at the moment. This is working well so far. The floorboards that need renewing will be a breeze compared to the bearers. ;D ;D



The Don's not the only one with some rot, I have to get some reconstruction done in the left shoulder in Melb next week , so that'll set all projects back a bit, last one to be done, glad there's no more than 2 ;D ;D, but it's sure worth it. Thats why I got a move on with the difficult crawling around stuff ;D ;D.

[Don Ricardo]

G'day Ron,

Great to see some you've made some more progress on the Don, and intriguing to see a bit more info coming to light about its construction. I know what you mean about the nails in the wheel arch. I pulled a dinette seat apart a few years ago to replace a water tank, and the number of screws that held the panels in place was unbelievable. Far more than was required simply to keep the panel where it should be.

Sorry to hear about the need for some work on your shoulder, but I trust that it goes smoothly, and that you will recover strength and movement quickly in it very quickly indeed.

Regards,

Don Ricardo

[Surf Tragic]

Ah well, Humpty Dumpty is back together again ;D, & got the ok to do a bit, even got permission from she who has, the last word and the word is, get out of the house etc .

Took the tyres off & found this on one rim, ummm, is this shorthand for something do you think .



Used the tractor to load up the steel bits, got them blasted, then home to etch prime & 2 coats of epoxy gloss, it came up good



See, it rained here too, is Daggsey rsponsible for this as well ;D ;D



Merri has been tolerant of all my hobbies for over 40 years now, she deserves a medal It pays to get approval from the boss ;D ;D



Merri & I holidayed in, and used our (dads) Don 140 after we married in '68, so no wonder we feel attached to the brand.

ST

[cobber]

Hang in there Ron....... me and another bloke are watching to see how you go with this lot... so keep those photos coming

Cobber.

[JBJ]

Hi Ron,

Bit hard to tell in that pix, but your wheels ( if they are 6 stud x 16" dia) appear to be early chev, the same as on my ply van I'm rebuilding. That makes them the same as Toyota etc 6 stud, & fit up to the 6 stud brakes that Alko supply.

May or may not be of any relevance.


Keep at it.Youre doing a great job.

Its all fun

JBJ

[firefighter]

Hi Ron

jbj is spot on ........ shevlet short hand for chevrolet
f/f ;D ;D ;D ;D

[Surf Tragic]

JBJ
you just read my mind, & I was hoping for that bit of info, & my guess was right that you would be the one to know ;D

I want to use the 16 inch chev rims same as you have done, dont worry, I'm watching closely , but hope the drums & brakes fit in behind the thick plate thats been used to drop the axle, I like the setup with the axle as it is in its original form.

I dont mind how much info you give. I would have to get drums 1st, right?? then the brake setup, 6 stud toyota sounds good, tell me all ;D ;D

ST.

[JBJ]

Hi Ron,

We certainly miss Kaybee's input when mechanical info is required. He's probably forgotten more than I'll ever know, but I try to help where I can.


I got the brake assemblies I have when I bought the ALKO axle assembly.

But I have seen the complete 6 stud brake assemblies, (from memory) hub & brakes complete , at a caravan parts store.

I just had a quick look at the ALKO web site, & they have mechanical cable operated brakes & all the bits you could need, in the 6 stud pattern as well as a smaller 4 stud. They also have hydraulis drum & discs available.

All of their 6 stud should readily fit 37 to 48 chev wheels.


I also found Indian made 6'50x16 rag tires in "Twin Tread" brand locally thru a tyre service, at just over $150 tyre & tube.
Thats a hell of a lot less than US made tyres, & they are good enough for vans. Sidewall is very soft & easily damaged though.

I poked an air hacksaw thru one cutting a bit out of my wheelwell recently. Didnt even notice or feel the cut happening.

Thats the same tyre I run in 13" dia on my Sunliner. Had them on for a lot of miles, & had no problems with anything using them.

JBJ

[Surf Tragic]

I wanted baltic pine for the floor to match & was able to get some even though they much thicker, but nice and dry. Expensive recycled stuff. Checked for nails, then wire brushed, also used a power hand planer to skim the varnish off, as it bluntens the blades quickly on the thicknesser machine



The floor boards had to be thicknessed & the tongue narrowed to fit existing, they came up good. The bearers are all Ash, cut out of my recycled stock, machined & rebated to take the flooring



All the rotted floor boards taken out



Under the floor showing new boards & bearers, also bolts for stays/legs



Floor in, bearers fixed, doorframe done, this is the 1st pieces fitted back in since the start, & its a very satisfying feeling. I can see everything coming together very satisfactory, a few improvements on the way. There is big improvement in the strength of the van already.



Hope you don't mind if I put this photo in again just to show how the doorway was previously.
I have really only started on this project but totally enjoying it & it gets better. Have panelbeaten the wheel arches into a better shape, and if noise indicates successful panelbeating, then its successful. ;D ;D

The wiring has started, am waiting for pictures from MarkT for light type & position of both lights & switches, most stuff is missing, and I want to reproduce the wall lights if possible & use halogen 12V, also need some idea of the most suitable tail-light indicator light assembly, it has to be functionable & look right, that is the next priority.

The braking arrangement is being sorted as well, so plenty on the go

ST

[Surf Tragic]

Had to use some of my collection of antique planes, quite fitting really. It is too dangerous to machine
short pieces of timber, many have lost fingers doing that, well you see, I have got used to having mine
so this is the best way to do this piece for in the wheel arch support.



All new timber in here for support of the steel wheel arch, then primed it all before re-fitting it
with all those gal clouts again



Cuphead bolts were originally used, & when you try to undo the nut holding the stabilizer leg, the bolt
turned in the timber, & there is no way of holding the top of the bolt
because it is in the wall cavity, so welded a flat piece of steel on top like so, and screwed it on top
of the bearer, should do the job




Ready to re-fit the bearer



Used a mat board from picture framing to cut a template for rotted jamb in back window, worth all the
trouble



Transferred the shape to the timber



Spokeshave to shape after bandsaw.



The back fixed window
New Jamb, Sill, Glazing beads installed. Found a heat gun, what a wonderful thing, stripped the paint from all
around the 2 window openings to be repaired, also off all the mouldings, sanded & primed wherever
something new was to be fitted



Back window ready for leadlight


Front window new jamb, window stop, sill.



Front window opening finished, primed, ready for new window

The next items will be a new window & new door. The old ones are mortised & tenoned at all joints, so will sure be
a challenge to do all that by hand, but am enjoying this so much even though its taking many hours, I won't bother counting.

Each piece of timber has had to be ripped, thicknessed both ways, shaped, & fitted, the days go fast !!

Mark T is taking some photos of light fittings, and their positions for me so I can get the rewiring done, I have
found the wires for 2 wall lights and their position, but don't know of any ceiling or down lights where-a bouts. I want to reproduce the lights if possible & wire for 12 volt halogen, It will call for the talent of someone who can use a metal lathe, and have someone in mind. Whoever stripped this van had no regard for the original fittings.

I will need some guidance for the kitchen very soon, the marks on the floor & walls gives me some idea of sizes.

I have sent PM's to others but haven't received any replies, I wonder if I am not doing it right? Sometimes I try
PM'ing off an old posting, say page 22 on Members Photos, should that work ok?

Cheers. I feel so good about this project I feel guilty !!!

ST.

[firefighter]

ron

why not go to the members profile and send your P M off that
click on members on the top of the page ... it will bring up every member pick out the one you want
f/f ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

[JBJ]

Hi Ron,

Looks like you're finding out what guys like Reddo, Retro1 & I, & lots of others, have been saying for a while. Its good enjoyable relaxation time spent working on old vans (most of the time)


Your Don will be a great restoration. I watched ( in photos) Dosse rebuild his, & his is considered up here to be the most over rated Don around (as well as a pretty good restoration). maybe the restored Dons can have there own " Over Rated Don" club.


Its all fun

JBJ

[Surf Tragic]

Thanks for your comments & advice men.

One thing that is quite evident is that it is a 2 badge van, the holes and distintive shape of the badge are front & back and can be seen in the photos;

After reading an old thread I believe someone was registering such things

ST

[Surf Tragic]

Hopefully the electric brakes are sorted, listening to advice from the local brake & clutch
team, a few trips to town, but finally have to get the welder out & get on with it.





Welding the mount plate to the axle was a bit awkward at the back with the original dropped
axle plate close behind it, so grooved the front out & welded from the front as well.





These bushes were specially made to suit Ford bearings on the inner race, if I had bought bearings
to fit the original axle, they quoted me $190 each, so was better in every way to make bushes to
suit something that is a shelf item.

The bushes cost $125. (3 1/2 hrs labour for a retired engineer)

The outer bearing was stock Holden. So there.... a bit of Ford, a bit of Holden.

The reason for the Ford bearing was because it was larger dia. and could make the bush fatter, it would have been very thin with the Holden bearing.




These were fitted with Locktite.
The bush also spaced the Drum from the Backing plate 3-4mm.




Bearing & seal fitted




Electric Backing Plate bolted to Mounting Plate, just enough room for the bolt length.
The overall track has been widened by about 30mm , hope i did the calcs right or it might be the 1st Don with flared guards.




Electric Backing Plate fitted. This would have to be the most overbraked Van with shoes this size, like JBJ's, but that's what you get with 6 stud Toyota, good stuff !





With the Electric drum fitted on, they are 6 stud Toyota like JBJ advised, a perfect fit for the old Chevy wheels, everything seems right, even the hand brake levers are in the right place & clear the drop axle plates, just have to take it all apart again, paint, grease & adjust, looks good to me.

For those who are interested, the total cost. $815 incl the pot of grease, wiring & 7 pin plug.

So far it has all been thoroughly enjoyable.

more later, ST .

[Don Ricardo]

Hi ST,

Great to see the further work on your Don. Your work to restore the back window frame is a wonderful thing to behold! Goes to show what you can do when you have the (old) tools and the skills...got neither myself...

It is fantastic that you are documenting your work as you go with your camera. I'm sure that the pics will be an encouragement and a guide to others.

May 4, 2009 21:51:45 GMT 10 Surf Tragic said:

Mark T is taking some photos of light fittings, and their positions for me so I can get the rewiring done, I have
found the wires for 2 wall lights and their position, but don't know of any ceiling or down lights where-a bouts. I want to reproduce the lights if possible & wire for 12 volt halogen, It will call for the talent of someone who can use a metal lathe, and have someone in mind. Whoever stripped this van had no regard for the original fittings.

I will need some guidance for the kitchen very soon, the marks on the floor & walls gives me some idea of sizes.

Regarding the ceiling and downlights - the only 'downlight' was located above the galley centred over the stove and the sink as can be seen from this pic of Mark T's 120 model with the same layout as yours (you've seen these pics before I think):



From memory the light in Mark's van is the same as - or very nearly the same as - the galley light in our van:



The downside is that it is very difficult to pick up lights like this one. Mark tried to find one for his 140, without any luck as far as I know.

The first pic above from Mark's van shows the location and style of the side lamps. Just so that you are in no doubt...the offwhite lamp attached to the cupboard is non-original. ;D ;D ;D

The other (original) side lamp is at the rear:



If you would like a close up of the side lamps from our van which are the same as yours would have been let me know. The lampshade is made of some sort of plastic which I have been unable to identify at this point. However I think it was pretty commonly used for lampshades, etc, in the 40's and 50's.

With regard to the measurements for the galley, the best bet is to get Mark to measure up his van. However, if you would like to inspect some cupboards, etc, up close to see how they fitted together you are very welcome to visit us and check out our van. I am almost certain that the galley cupboards in the 120 and 140 models were close to identical.

And again - congratulations on the fine job you are doing with your van.

Don Ricardo