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Post by markclap on Nov 11, 2019 15:06:44 GMT 10
Hi folks, I'm new to forums so please be kind and direct me if I am in the wrong space. I've read some intiresting notes re Prattline in some of these messages so I anticipate contributing and receiving as we go along. We bought our 15' LowTow perhaps two years ago and have had some good little jaunts with it and are now preparing for a 6000km trip next year. I was guessing our van is about 35yrs old and in fairly good condition. The previous owners were good to it.
It took me a while to realise the van has electric brakes and then to put in a redarc tow pro. I tow with an 2014 Outlander PHEV and never felt I needed brakes but aparently it's a legal requirement. All good now. In last six months I've had a few hickups with the raise and lower Hydraulic system. In pumping the handle for raising it seems to slip or only be effective for half of each stroke. I purchased the new o rings from the supplier in northern suburbs of Adelaide and followed their advice in fitting these to the pump but only succeeded in partial recovery of normal function. I am not keen on spending the ~$700 being asked for a refurbished pump. I could take a guess that my bypass valve is giving trouble but I cant find any information on dealing with that. I would be quite interested in throwing the hand pump away and put in an electric one. It would require a little control manifold for the 4 ram tubes. Yes, I understand this thought would scandalize most of the restoration purists, very sorry about that aspect folks, I do respect your mighty work. If I can carefully put a replacement on the van it would buy me some much needed time to rebuild the original. Further to some of your notes re the Prattline origins: yes Mr Pratt did sell some fixed height vans early in his operations. The son, Geoff Pratt, operates a business RV Trailers in Adelaides northern suburbs. He makes very good trailers and has made two for my TAFESA Solar Vehicle team. Kind regards to All Mark |
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Post by hughdeany on Nov 11, 2019 18:33:38 GMT 10
Hi Mark and welcome,
From memory all that system ever needed was a good bleed and clean fluid to keep working.( as long as there were no leaks)
Electric raising was available originally,but I don’t ever remember seeing any in the models I saw.
Maybe the people that make trailamate jacks or hydraulic legs could help you,it’s basically the same system.
Hope this helps
Cheers
hughdeany
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Post by markclap on Nov 11, 2019 19:15:38 GMT 10
Appreciated hughdeany, I will take a look at trailamate.
To achieve flushing my system I will have to fabricate a draining plug first (which is on my todo list)
Yes that's the first step.
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Post by markclap on Dec 22, 2019 19:44:09 GMT 10
Ok, I have taken a bit of a look around at alternatives and have returned to my original project.
so now I've installed a drain plug on the hydraulic reservoir and given that a thorough flushing. And I've removed the hand pump again but stripped it further than previously.
I have found there's a second ball and seat, not mentioned in any previous notes, this being at the bottom of the main cylinder. No spring on this one. It's to stop the stroke pressure from going straight back into the reservoir on the downstroke and permits fluid to come up into the cylinder on the upstroke.
Having scrubbed and soaked off as much gunge as possible with laundry detergent and hot water I am able to inspect the seat of this valve. My eyes are not 100% but I detect an imperfection or nick on the edge of the seat. This could well be the total answer to the source of my trouble.
Problem now is how to repair the seat 
I am considering modifying a countersink bit and welding a long shaft on that so I can reach the seat and try polishing the imperfection away.
I can not identify the material of the seat.
There's five brass control valves with their matching seats and two ball bearing valves (one horizontal with a spring, the bypass valve I think). The brass ones have removable seats threaded in from the side opposite the valve handles. I cant tell if the balls have special seats or if it's just part of the aluminium pump body.
input and comments welcome, thanks.
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Post by Geoff & Jude on Dec 22, 2019 22:03:28 GMT 10
hi mark
if the fault in the seat is only minor, you can sometimes repair it simply by dropping the ball back onto the seat and giving the ball a couple of good solid taps with a (flat bottomed) punch.
obviously this can only be done if the seat is softer than the ball, which i expect it is.
another option is to glue, solder or braze a ball onto a bit of round bar and lap the seat in a similar way to lapping in car valves.
geoff 'n jude
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Post by markclap on Dec 23, 2019 21:24:52 GMT 10
great to hear from you thanks Geoff&Jude
I had read about giving the ball a thump but had not understood the reasoning so I was a bit loath to try that. Perfect spheres, as in ball bearings, seem a bit sacred as do valve seats.
It seems to me that these two seats which receive the ball bearings as the valves are simply formed in the parent metal; aluminium. This being so it does make sense to give the ball a hit to re-shape the seat. And I do like your suggestion of the valve grinding method too.
I inspected the unit again today along with a friend and we came up with an idea of making a rubber ring to sit in the seat, from a bit of bicycle tube.
My wife wonders if that will stay in place properly. Fingers crossed methinks. I'd like to start with this plan as it's low impact and the nick in the seat looks like it would take quite some effort in grinding if I went that direction.
I dont expect anything will happen fast over next few days with Christmas events. I will try and remember to report back asap.
thanks again Mark
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Post by humpynvan on Dec 24, 2019 10:16:23 GMT 10
A piece of wooden dowel shaped to the same shape as the seat, with a piece if wet and dry over it, you could then either hand polish it or put the dowel in a drill and do it that way, I also have a prattline with a dodgy pump, so would be keen to see how you go, depending on its size, bunnings sell a tap seat replacement kit, where effectively you bore out the tap seat and fit a new machined one in its place, similar to the way they put hardened valve seats in heads, maybe thats an option? i hopefully wont have to use my pump for a long time, as the van is currently doing duty as a 4th bedroom on the back of the house, its situated under one side of a 5x5m patio situated outside the dining room sliding door, so now we have a breezeway between the house and the van. its of fits wheels and sitting on blocks under the chassis to get it low enough. if you wanted to assist in rebuilding my pump i might be open to the idea of you taking and using mine as a spare for your travels... depending where your based of course.. www.bunnings.com.au/hydroseal-tap-seat-replacement-kit_p4902119www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-12mm-push-in-tap-seats-2-pack_p4920396******EDIT******* Just another thought, as i was replacing the orings for like the third time last time i raised mine up ( my bore is scored so rips orings) ithoughtabout using the hand pump that comes with like a car body porta power kit some how adapting that and still use the existing manifold, but as i said i dont plan on using mine for a while so it wasnt high priority enough to persue. www.ebay.com.au/itm/HYDRAULIC-PUMP-HOSE-ASSEMBLY-20-TON-PORTA-POWER-SHOP-PRESS-HP20PP/253576597275?hash=item3b0a57cf1b:g:sE0AAOSwptJaZXYbAlso the rings are just standard off the shelf sizes, i had the exact ones in a grab kit i have, i will grab the size for you next time im in the shed |
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Post by markclap on Dec 24, 2019 17:18:21 GMT 10
g'day humpynvan and others (btw I am in Beverley, west of Adelaide city)
in last 24hrs I've had two mates inspect this pump and we have all agreed that the "seats" of the two valves which use the ball bearings are simply shaped in the parent aluminium body. Very soft metal and as has been suggested could be surfaced with a lapping compound and suitable mandrel.
One guy this morning suggested soldering a ball bearing (same size as these used in the pump) onto a bit of rod as the piece to do the grinding with. I would do this by hand in respect of the soft metal.
I've just come in from re-assembling the system. For now I chose to go with a low impact solution in the first try. Humpynvan you were onto something almost when you pointed towards Bunnings tap washers. I chose a couple of yellow neoprene 19mm ext washers which have a hole in centre about 4mm. I then used a pad punch to open the hole to match the opening of the seat in the pump, and dropped that down the main bore before putting the ball in.
I've re-assembled the pump with new O rings which I have in abundance, as you say these can be generic from bunnings. The two brass cap nuts have received a tiny bit of sicaflex silicon to make a gasket seal, and I've put some nylon washers in the handle assembly which always seemed to be wobbly.
This morning I bought a couple of litres of soluble cutting oil from my mate at his machining shop so I've mixed a new batch of fluid and filled that up. . ... .. .... .. .... now for the big test result . .
sorry I cant tell you today because I want to let that sicaflex set.
enjoy Christmas everyone and remember to spread peace and good cheer.
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Post by markclap on Dec 27, 2019 9:41:44 GMT 10
hmmm mmm .. .. .. not so good
Dec 26 I gave the pump a few strokes, well quite a few, and it did not take up pressure. so I will have to at least remove the piston, check its O rings, and do something else with the ball valve at the bottom of the cylinder.
(that will be sometime after this 40 deg day is passed)
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Post by markclap on Dec 28, 2019 12:20:21 GMT 10
Dec 28
I pulled the piston out and found the new neoprene washer sitting against the piston end with the ball underneath.
Put them back in the correct order.
Tried the pump again.
- - same result.... not working.
I pulled the piston out and found the new neoprene washer sitting against the piston end with the ball underneath. ..again.
So I have deducted that a loose fit of the 19mm neoprene washer is not satisfactory. The inrush of fluid on the upstroke is lifting and flipping the washer.
Just on a hunch I kept the washer in my pocket, put the ball back and the piston.
Tried again and found the pump to work quite satisfactory.. . .big smile.
I think I must have managed to tidy up the flaw in the seat suitably for now, with all my attempts.
If or when the trouble returns I have another larger neoprene washer ready to go. Possibly with a snug fit in the bore we wont have the flipping trouble mentioned above.
All smiles for now.
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Post by markclap on Jul 19, 2020 20:51:10 GMT 10
Yes, well back again, looking for an electrical replacement for the hydraulic hand pump.
Over the last months I've installed a good battery system and been away for weeks enjoying the van and South Australia.
Havent enjoyed the deteriorating performance of the hand pump. Frustrating because the thing is so basic there should be nothing going wrong. But I've put enough effort into it thus far, and I refuse to buy a new one at the ridiculous asking price.
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gwill
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Post by gwill on Aug 12, 2020 16:17:20 GMT 10
Hi folks, I'm new to forums so please be kind and direct me if I am in the wrong space. I've read some intiresting notes re Prattline in some of these messages so I anticipate contributing and receiving as we go along. We bought our 15' LowTow perhaps two years ago and have had some good little jaunts with it and are now preparing for a 6000km trip next year. I was guessing our van is about 35yrs old and in fairly good condition. The previous owners were good to it.
It took me a while to realise the van has electric brakes and then to put in a redarc tow pro. I tow with an 2014 Outlander PHEV and never felt I needed brakes but aparently it's a legal requirement. All good now. In last six months I've had a few hickups with the raise and lower Hydraulic system. In pumping the handle for raising it seems to slip or only be effective for half of each stroke. I purchased the new o rings from the supplier in northern suburbs of Adelaide and followed their advice in fitting these to the pump but only succeeded in partial recovery of normal function. I am not keen on spending the ~$700 being asked for a refurbished pump. I could take a guess that my bypass valve is giving trouble but I cant find any information on dealing with that. I would be quite interested in throwing the hand pump away and put in an electric one. It would require a little control manifold for the 4 ram tubes. Yes, I understand this thought would scandalize most of the restoration purists, very sorry about that aspect folks, I do respect your mighty work. If I can carefully put a replacement on the van it would buy me some much needed time to rebuild the original. Further to some of your notes re the Prattline origins: yes Mr Pratt did sell some fixed height vans early in his operations. The son, Geoff Pratt, operates a business RV Trailers in Adelaides northern suburbs. He makes very good trailers and has made two for my TAFESA Solar Vehicle team. Kind regards to All Mark |
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Post by misskate14 on Aug 13, 2020 17:07:23 GMT 10
Hi guys I’m new to this forum also. As per your post I’m in the process of repairing my hyd hand pump of my prattline. Same as you I can’t seem to gain any pressure, pump is losing compression. I can’t get in to have it serviced for a month so I’d rather repair myself Ie attempt to bleed lines in case any gunk is caught, or alternatively replace the hydraulic system with an electric option, potentially actuators? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! Kate Hi folks, I'm new to forums so please be kind and direct me if I am in the wrong space. I've read some intiresting notes re Prattline in some of these messages so I anticipate contributing and receiving as we go along. We bought our 15' LowTow perhaps two years ago and have had some good little jaunts with it and are now preparing for a 6000km trip next year. I was guessing our van is about 35yrs old and in fairly good condition. The previous owners were good to it.
It took me a while to realise the van has electric brakes and then to put in a redarc tow pro. I tow with an 2014 Outlander PHEV and never felt I needed brakes but aparently it's a legal requirement. All good now. In last six months I've had a few hickups with the raise and lower Hydraulic system. In pumping the handle for raising it seems to slip or only be effective for half of each stroke. I purchased the new o rings from the supplier in northern suburbs of Adelaide and followed their advice in fitting these to the pump but only succeeded in partial recovery of normal function. I am not keen on spending the ~$700 being asked for a refurbished pump. I could take a guess that my bypass valve is giving trouble but I cant find any information on dealing with that. I would be quite interested in throwing the hand pump away and put in an electric one. It would require a little control manifold for the 4 ram tubes. Yes, I understand this thought would scandalize most of the restoration purists, very sorry about that aspect folks, I do respect your mighty work. If I can carefully put a replacement on the van it would buy me some much needed time to rebuild the original. Further to some of your notes re the Prattline origins: yes Mr Pratt did sell some fixed height vans early in his operations. The son, Geoff Pratt, operates a business RV Trailers in Adelaides northern suburbs. He makes very good trailers and has made two for my TAFESA Solar Vehicle team. Kind regards to All Mark |
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neilf
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Post by neilf on Oct 27, 2020 9:11:25 GMT 10
hmmm mmm .. .. .. not so good
Dec 26 I gave the pump a few strokes, well quite a few, and it did not take up pressure. so I will have to at least remove the piston, check its O rings, and do something else with the ball valve at the bottom of the cylinder.
(that will be sometime after this 40 deg day is passed)
Hi just chasing some advice on a prattline van i recently inherited the van pumps up ok but won’t stay up ...do the 4 valves need to be closed once the van is up ..? I am sure this is a silly question to prattline owners ...do the values wind in until tight ? Or do they need to be set at 12 o’clock position ? Unfortunately due to covid19 i can’t get back to the van after my initial visit...so i am trying to get as much information as i can any help appreciated thanks Neil |
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Post by hughdeany on Oct 27, 2020 9:25:20 GMT 10
Hi Neil,
You only need turn the valves a quarter turn to open,pump up then close valves.
I think if you ring Seatra in Adelaide who make caravan hydraulic jacks they will be able to give you advice and possibly sell you the parts you need.
In the past I have dealt with them re hydraulics and they have been extremely helpful.
Cheers
hughdeany
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neilf
New Member
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Post by neilf on Oct 27, 2020 9:57:51 GMT 10
Hi Neil, You only need turn the valves a quarter turn to open,pump up then close valves. I think if you ring Seatra in Adelaide who make caravan hydraulic jacks they will be able to give you advice and possibly sell you the parts you need. In the past I have dealt with them re hydraulics and they have been extremely helpful. Cheers hughdeany Thanks Hughdeany much appreciated ... I didn’t close the valves...so now i know .... |
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Post by lowtowcirca1970 on Dec 5, 2020 19:34:29 GMT 10
hmmm mmm .. .. .. not so good
Dec 26 I gave the pump a few strokes, well quite a few, and it did not take up pressure. so I will have to at least remove the piston, check its O rings, and do something else with the ball valve at the bottom of the cylinder.
(that will be sometime after this 40 deg day is passed)
Hi just chasing some advice on a prattline van i recently inherited the van pumps up ok but won’t stay up ...do the 4 valves need to be closed once the van is up ..? I am sure this is a silly question to prattline owners ...do the values wind in until tight ? Or do they need to be set at 12 o’clock position ? Unfortunately due to covid19 i can’t get back to the van after my initial visit...so i am trying to get as much information as i can any help appreciated thanks Neil To Neilf, go to this old page, part way down there are instructions for the pump plus some great photos of vans. etc. www.tapatalk.com/groups/australianvintageclassiccaravan/the-amazing-prattline-caravans-t83.htmlI've also got an old early model Prattline and have been tinkering with the idea of using a small car steering pump. I put a handle on the pulley and soldered up a suction pipe and a connector pipe to the valve body. I may need a non return foot valve but I'll try first without and see if there is too much leak back that requires constant priming. My thinking is that as it takes a few dozen strokes to lift the top, it would only take a similar number of turns of the handle. The pump puts out an amazing amount of volume/pressure. I emptied a 2 litre icecream tub in seconds with it on a battery drill. Up and down pumping with these simple, one way pumps means that one stroke is wasted. If the handle on the pulley is too short, too much effort, it's no biggie to make a longer one. |
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Post by markclap on Jan 24, 2021 20:27:02 GMT 10
Your idea of the car steering pump is interesting. I hope it works OK for you and I am interested to hear your results.
My deteriorating pump performance has again made me assess the options. I've just now ordered a 12volt chemical pump FL3203 from water pumps now. Specs: 5L/min 100psi 4.5Amps. I've taken a guess at the required psi. Couldn't figure out how to measure the prattline system pressure.
When it arrives i will be looking at how to couple it to the existing manifold.
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Post by markclap on Mar 13, 2021 20:15:50 GMT 10
So at March 2021 I am still fiddling with my pump.
Purchased a nice FL3203 12v pump rated to 100psi and 5L/m.
The pressure spec was a bit of guesswork as I dont have a gauge to measure the hand pump pressure and neither have I fixed that hand pump sufficiently to guarantee it would show the right pressure anyway. A friend did a bit of mental engineering maths and we reckon its in the ballpark.
Raised the position of the hand pump by 100mm to permit installing the FL3203 between the tank and the hand pump intake.
lowered the van using the normal return valve then set the valve closed ready to raise the van.
Started the FL3203 pump. It ran until primed then cut out on its internal pressure switch, as designed.
The van stayed lowered and has not budged for the last six hours.
We've tried changing the adjuster screw on the end of the FL3203. Various sources seem to indicate that the pump should be adjustable from 65 to 110 psi.
More likely the main trouble still lies within the hand pump. This must work and hold it's correct pressures for this whole system to succeed.
The handle kept rising all the way when I let it go.
This means the bypass valve is not closing due to weak spring or ball not seating for some other reason.
So I addressed that situation with the usual recommended nudge on the ball with a flat punch and big hammer. That failed.
So I resorted to putting in a heavy spring.
This definitely made the ball sit in it's seat. The handle did not try and return to the up position.
However, the heavy spring does not permit the fluid to enter the manifold chamber.
The handle permits me to pump away merrily with some reasonably normal feel but the pressure just goes straight past the bottom ball and back into the tank below. That bottom ball is not seating properly.
It's now very clear to me that these two balls and seats must be kept in good condition and the spring in the non return valve must have just the right tension to permit the one way only flow of fluid.
So sometime pretty soon I will follow the earlier recommendations for grinding and lapping the seats.
My wife has suggested that I pay the $740 for the reconditioned hand pump, but I totally object.!!
It's only a simple mechanical device and should be fixable. . . .... we will see.
kind regards to you all
Mark
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Post by lowtowcirca1970 on Mar 15, 2021 21:14:49 GMT 10
Well this is good timing Markclap. I just logged on since I wrote some time ago and see your update from a few days ago. I've discovered a few things. Firstly, it takes around 350 psi to lift the circa 1970s van. Probably the same for your later one. Second, the steering pump has to be fair screaming to do that and I think the internal overload valve dumps too much so I only get a few centimetres lift which immediate falls back when its stopped. I made a foot valve, that helped a bit so I installed an inline valve between the pump and the hand pump and that helped too... marginally! But really still a fail! Hmm?
So, back to the drawing board and a Ebay search turned up a sweet little hydraulic gear pump capable of pumping well in excess of 400 psi for $150, free post. Italian made with a permanent magnet 12v brushless 20 amp at top pressure, motor, 1 liter per minute! Not much output but a back of the envelope calc, would reckon the 4 cylinders would have a capacity of of 2-3 liters max, ergo, 2-3 minutes to pump up, about what it takes manually It needs a PWM, Pulse Wave Modulator ($60) and a 20 Amp controller $17 for two. Just had a preliminary wiring and then fidget today but no joy yet. Hmm, back to YouTube.
I've ordered a 5 port, individually adjustable manifold (like the original but just 2 cm wide) $20, so I can leave the original pump in place for no power times. It comes with fittings for oil. I bought a high pressure oil gauge, it goes up to 2,000 psi for $60 from the local farm dealership. Screwed it into an elbow, then T, I put it in the plug in the top of the hand pump and tested the lifting pressure, that's when I found it takes close to 350 psi. I had to use an elbow to get the T out from under the handle. In the short term before the new manifold arrives, I'm just screwing into the bottom of the T in the top hole below the gauge. When the manifold gets here in April, I'll have to buy 4 T's to adapt into the old plumbing. I'm thinking the pump output going into the manual pump through the top hole should work okay as it pushes against the non return valve at the bottom plug, but I'd like to use a new manifold as the old one leaks a little despite new O rings.
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Post by markclap on Mar 27, 2021 19:30:16 GMT 10
Great to see your progress lowtowcirca1970 and I certainly appreciate your information.
Boy was I way off with estimate of the pressure. Well done with measuring that, thankyou.
Interesting experiment with that steering pump. Would you mind posting the detail of the sweet gear pump? supplier? It sounds like I need that a bit later.
Wonderful news from me this week. .... I fixed the manual pump !! Took a bit of doing but it's great. I raised and lowered the van 3 times just for fun in 10mins.
Over these years I started repairs working from gentle measures to severe.
This week I resolved that I had to get down and properly grind and lap the two ball valve seats.
A friend soldered a matching ball bearing (9.49mm dia) onto the end of a 6mm steel rod to make me a valve grinding tool.
I removed and stripped the pump. (this takes me less than 5mins now after so much practice)
Then an hour with some grinding paste from an engine valve grind kit.
After clean up it was evident that the pump cylinder valve seat had a huge divit (3mm long 0.5mm deep) . ..... disappointing. . ..
So out with a countersink tool and extension rod and battery drill. That got rid of the defect in about 10mins, then back to the grinding paste.
The two grades of paste do a nice job of the seats.
I was extremely fussy about clean up. Imagine the mess if one bit of grit were to get left in the bore. !!
Re-assembled yet again and 53 strokes of the handle the van was up.!
Not one sign of bleed past the non return valve either.
I have split the nut on the No.4 tube but even that did not leak.
!!! YIPPEEEE AND YEEEEEHAAA !!!
finally some real progress. We feel it works better than when we bought the van a few years ago and now I really know how the pump operates.
Now that my manual pump performs well I still think I would like to install the electric one between the tank and the pickup of the manual pump.
I might need to re-build the little tee handles on the five taps though. These have had a hard life.
The pump I already bought (FL3203 100psi) will do nicely for water when I get around to that later.
I am enjoying our conversation, thanks for sharing
Mark
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Post by humpynvan on Apr 25, 2021 7:51:02 GMT 10
Great to see your progress lowtowcirca1970 and I certainly appreciate your information. Boy was I way off with estimate of the pressure. Well done with measuring that, thankyou. Interesting experiment with that steering pump. Would you mind posting the detail of the sweet gear pump? supplier? It sounds like I need that a bit later. Wonderful news from me this week. .... I fixed the manual pump !! Took a bit of doing but it's great. I raised and lowered the van 3 times just for fun in 10mins. Over these years I started repairs working from gentle measures to severe. This week I resolved that I had to get down and properly grind and lap the two ball valve seats. A friend soldered a matching ball bearing (9.49mm dia) onto the end of a 6mm steel rod to make me a valve grinding tool. I removed and stripped the pump. (this takes me less than 5mins now after so much practice) Then an hour with some grinding paste from an engine valve grind kit. After clean up it was evident that the pump cylinder valve seat had a huge divit (3mm long 0.5mm deep) . ..... disappointing. . .. So out with a countersink tool and extension rod and battery drill. That got rid of the defect in about 10mins, then back to the grinding paste. The two grades of paste do a nice job of the seats. I was extremely fussy about clean up. Imagine the mess if one bit of grit were to get left in the bore. !! Re-assembled yet again and 53 strokes of the handle the van was up.! Not one sign of bleed past the non return valve either. I have split the nut on the No.4 tube but even that did not leak. !!! YIPPEEEE AND YEEEEEHAAA !!! finally some real progress. We feel it works better than when we bought the van a few years ago and now I really know how the pump operates. Now that my manual pump performs well I still think I would like to install the electric one between the tank and the pickup of the manual pump. I might need to re-build the little tee handles on the five taps though. These have had a hard life. The pump I already bought (FL3203 100psi) will do nicely for water when I get around to that later. I am enjoying our conversation, thanks for sharing Mark I might have to take my pup off and send it to you for a rebuild LOL |
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bb
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Post by bb on Sept 18, 2021 13:10:13 GMT 10
Hi all. I’m new to Proboards and caravaning. Hopefully you can help me. I have just purchased a 1989 Prattline Low-Tow, 17 ft.
After raising the van do I put the props in place and lower the roof onto the props and lock the hydraulics. Do the props support the roof? If so, then the bottom of the cupboards is bowing up. Inside the cupboard I can see a piece of vertical chipboard. Please. Any advise would be appreciated.
Thank you
BB
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Post by hughdeany on Sept 18, 2021 15:44:32 GMT 10
Hi bb,
Your van shouldn’t have props to hold it up,they normally stay up by themselves.
I don’t understand what you mean re the cupboards bowing up,if you mean the wall then there is something serious going on inside the wall framing,which is wood.
Have a look at the other posts on here for info on what you have.
Cheers
hughdeany
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Post by winodude on Jun 8, 2023 12:48:31 GMT 10
Great to see your progress lowtowcirca1970 and I certainly appreciate your information. Boy was I way off with estimate of the pressure. Well done with measuring that, thankyou. Interesting experiment with that steering pump. Would you mind posting the detail of the sweet gear pump? supplier? It sounds like I need that a bit later. Wonderful news from me this week. .... I fixed the manual pump !! Took a bit of doing but it's great. I raised and lowered the van 3 times just for fun in 10mins. Over these years I started repairs working from gentle measures to severe. This week I resolved that I had to get down and properly grind and lap the two ball valve seats. A friend soldered a matching ball bearing (9.49mm dia) onto the end of a 6mm steel rod to make me a valve grinding tool. I removed and stripped the pump. (this takes me less than 5mins now after so much practice) Then an hour with some grinding paste from an engine valve grind kit. After clean up it was evident that the pump cylinder valve seat had a huge divit (3mm long 0.5mm deep) . ..... disappointing. . .. So out with a countersink tool and extension rod and battery drill. That got rid of the defect in about 10mins, then back to the grinding paste. The two grades of paste do a nice job of the seats. I was extremely fussy about clean up. Imagine the mess if one bit of grit were to get left in the bore. !! Re-assembled yet again and 53 strokes of the handle the van was up.! Not one sign of bleed past the non return valve either. I have split the nut on the No.4 tube but even that did not leak. !!! YIPPEEEE AND YEEEEEHAAA !!! finally some real progress. We feel it works better than when we bought the van a few years ago and now I really know how the pump operates. Now that my manual pump performs well I still think I would like to install the electric one between the tank and the pickup of the manual pump. I might need to re-build the little tee handles on the five taps though. These have had a hard life. The pump I already bought (FL3203 100psi) will do nicely for water when I get around to that later. I am enjoying our conversation, thanks for sharing Mark As a fellow Beverley(SA) Prattline owner I am curious of the progress on the subject matter of this post!
regards
Wayne
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