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annexes
Mar 19, 2006 0:09:39 GMT 10
Post by will and Lyn on Mar 19, 2006 0:09:39 GMT 10
;D Hi belinda I used a wallpaper seam roller I cut the handle off and used two saddle clips to secure it to the outside of the door simple and effective low cost congratulations Will
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Jim
New Member
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annexes
Mar 20, 2006 13:47:33 GMT 10
Post by Jim on Mar 20, 2006 13:47:33 GMT 10
Fiamma make a neat door roller Here's the picture and part number from Caravan Accessories catalogue online at www.caravanacc.com.auDownload the accessories PDF file (Page 25)
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annexes
Mar 23, 2006 17:28:15 GMT 10
Post by belinda on Mar 23, 2006 17:28:15 GMT 10
Little wheel was fitted at the top of the van door today.
thanks for the advice.
Belinda
PS. I was thumbing through my copy of Keith Winser's "Plans for Caravans" and found what he recommended as a door roller - a wooden cotton reel.
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annexes
Mar 25, 2006 16:00:31 GMT 10
Post by belinda on Mar 25, 2006 16:00:31 GMT 10
OK guys, now I need to know the niftiest way of lacing the corners of the annexe together.
cheers
Belinda
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annexes
Apr 17, 2006 18:18:07 GMT 10
Post by trodler on Apr 17, 2006 18:18:07 GMT 10
Hi Belinda. Its been a while, but I had my van out over easter a took a couple of photos for you. Hope this helps. Cheers. Trodler.
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annexes
Jul 5, 2006 20:11:34 GMT 10
Post by belinda on Jul 5, 2006 20:11:34 GMT 10
We rigged up a handy 12v annexe light using one of those clip-on sixties anodised aluminium bed lamps, a high efficency globe from Rainbow Power Company and a cigarette lighter plug from Caravan Accessories. It gave great light without drilling any extra holes into the side of the van, and we could move it around to provide light where it was most needed.
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annexes
Jan 10, 2007 15:54:33 GMT 10
Post by belinda on Jan 10, 2007 15:54:33 GMT 10
We manufactured a whole lot of these annexe ties using 3mm shock cord and large wooden beads with a hole drilled across them. The were terrific for quickly securing the corners of the annexe together and firmly attaching them to the poles
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annexes
Jan 14, 2007 16:54:10 GMT 10
Post by royce on Jan 14, 2007 16:54:10 GMT 10
Done a lot of camping and put up a lot of dining flies, tents and so on and still learned from all of this. Reddoknowledge came through again I see. Some things I've done or knew and other tips came in handy. Thank you for the nod Belinda to check it out and see Reddo's comment I've made my own awning ties too but those shown here are easier but you get them very cheap from Supercheap auto - so cheap I wouldn't bother to make my own any more. Lots of roads to Rome as they say. I have the cigarette lighter power socket in my van too as an accessory plug but a word of warning. The plastic cigarette lighter sockets can overheat on some appliances. To overcome this potential problem use stainless steel ones otherwise use nothing drawing greater than 10 amps.. I got mine from Jaycar Electronics in Newcastle. The plastic overheat and melt so be careful what appliances you try to use with them. Be careful with the plugs for the same reason depending on the current you are drawing through them. If you put stainless steel fittings in then your worst problem is the fuse might blow which, so long as your wiring is correct (ie wires to the Austraslian standard), is resolved by replacing with a greater ampage fuse. If you want to know the standards for wiring let me know. I have them in a booklet I purchased. I'm adding a technical thread to cover it for anyone who wants to know.
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annexes
Jan 14, 2007 18:29:39 GMT 10
Post by belinda on Jan 14, 2007 18:29:39 GMT 10
Our high-efficiency 12v globe (see picture above) draws a miniscule current so overheating is a risk in our case, but I'm curious to know what sort of appliances might risk the problem?
Interesting to hear that annexe ties are available commercially, but are they colour-matched to your annexe?! (these are)
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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annexes
Jan 14, 2007 19:32:23 GMT 10
Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2007 19:32:23 GMT 10
Royce Re: DC. Voltage. As your battery goes flat the appliance " sucks harder" to maintain efficiency this increases the amps and with higher amperage and lower voltage comes heat. Lifes like that ... the harder the suck.. the hotter things get . 12 volt DC is good but dont expect a stock old 55Ah battery to keep everything pumping for 3 days in the heat. get onto gas or 240 volt ( where available)for the fridge and lights as soon as you set up camp. If all else fails make sure ya got ice for the stubbies... everything pales into insignificance after a couple of bottles. Reddo.. Apprentice electrician.. Wood st , Newcastle tech... 1970 to 1974. could have been there a few years longer and repeated... but i managed to pay the teacher enough to get my lecko licence.
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annexes
Jan 15, 2007 11:59:34 GMT 10
Post by groovy on Jan 15, 2007 11:59:34 GMT 10
Belinda Compact flouros emit light radially so the shroud around it will block the major part of light emitted. The best way to use them is in a horizontal mounting that exposes the length of the fluoro, pretty much like the old bedhead lamps with the bulb mounted sideways.
Greg
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annexes
Jan 15, 2007 18:23:55 GMT 10
Post by royce on Jan 15, 2007 18:23:55 GMT 10
Crikey Reddo - a lecko on the sly. Yep - I'm not a lecko or a lecko's boot but got some info on it - enough to give me the drum and be aware of the problem. I went dear on the battery, a $300 AGM 100amp model from Battery World. It has no fluid and can run upside down if it has to (another tip from a shipwright mate) I added to the rig a $300 battey smart charger (3 stage to maximum of 10amps) which is designed to used with the battery. Set me back a bit but no battery can blow up, give off gas or be less than maximum charged if mains is available. It switches off so means with a 240v generator or mains the charger keeps the battery topped up and not overcharged (some problems with fluctuations in generator current but I won't go there). I restrict power to lights mainly so when I get rid of the electric fridge
BUT I digress - if you plan to run more than lights than consider the power usage - I had a amp metre (or is that ammetre Reddolecko?) in mine but had to take it out (lack of room) so left the volt meter in but I still intend to instal my amp metre somewhere to tell me what amps I am drawing. OOPs - digress again
ANNEXES is the thread. the commercial ties are black plastic with black elastic cord but if you want colour coded - back to making your own I guess.
I'm just doing as instructed by Reddo here good vv people (something to do with Mopars held together by 5 spot welds).
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Deleted
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annexes
Jan 15, 2007 19:31:45 GMT 10
Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2007 19:31:45 GMT 10
Hi Royce
Can i suggest putting a battery condition gauge in rather than an ammeter. Ammeters are fine but all they are telling you is how much current you are drawing off the battery. A battery condition gauge will tell you what state of charge your battery is in. They are a simple gauge ( glorified voltmeter) that drops from Green , through an orange or yellow zone down to red. In most cases by the time the battery drops out of the green its time to switch off the fridge. when it gets to the lower end of the yellow zone your light bulbs will also be yellow instead of white... even with only one or two low wattage globes. Its not a good idea to let a battery get drained completely flat with a big load on them. can damage the internals and halve the battery life. I use to run a deep cycle fork lift battery in a dual battery set up in my toyota hilux 4X4. the 12v/240v engle fridge would last about 2 1/2 days camping before it drained the battery to a point where the plug in connection would get hot. This is where i got the practical experience in voltage drop + amperage increase = a near melted adaptor plug.. would take a 3 or 4 hours of driving or at least a day on the charger to bring it back to full fizz again.
Reddo & Co - Leckos... Ladies let us remove your shorts!!!
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annexes
Jan 16, 2007 6:33:48 GMT 10
Post by royce on Jan 16, 2007 6:33:48 GMT 10
Thanks Reddo - good advice and I'll check it out (i.e. taking your advice and will get get one). I added an electrical thread linking to Colyn Rivers stuff. It helped dumb guy me but you can cast a more knowledgable eye on the articles etc. I've taken him in good faith and followed his advice and suggestions.
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annexes
Mar 4, 2007 18:56:38 GMT 10
Post by belinda on Mar 4, 2007 18:56:38 GMT 10
To clarify descriptions on other posts, here is an example of sailtrack ..... .... and here is marconi track. You can't see the clips on the annexe, but they are about 30cm apart and need to be fed onto the track one at a time.
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