Solar Power ????

[jazhow2]

[glow=red,2,300]HAS ANYONE TRIED SOLAR POWER???[/glow]
We are thinking of a small panel to keep a 12 volt car battery charged ...to run the lights of our van......put this in the "[glow=red,2,300]Retro meets Techno bucket[/glow]..!!!!
Much of our vanning will be to fishing spots with no 240 volt power!!! ;D ;D

Any thoughts...!

Thanks
Marc

[Roehm3108]

Hi Jazhow
Not much help on the solar alternative. But I've just bought myself a 900amp jump starter power pack from Supercheap Auto, and a fluro light to plug into it. This should keep me lit up for a week. It has the added advantage that it can be recharged by simply plugging into the cigarette lighter whilst travelling. The pack only cost $69. Maybe that's another alternative for you?
Cheers
Ray

[cuz]

G,day Marc, regarding solar power, i also have a jumper pack that i connect up to a 240 volt/ 800 watt inverter that i got from Bursons Auto Parts here in Victoria, don't know if they have stores in other states. This allows me to operate flouro lights, tv, microwave.etc. As long as you check on power demands from appliances this gives no trouble, it has the advantage of cutting out at 10.5 volts thus not flattening your battery supply completely. During the day i charge up the booster pack with a solar charger that i bought from the Warehouse on special for about 20 bucks. Auto spare parts places might have these products but if you shop around you my get them cheaper. Regards Bill

[jazhow2]

Thanks Ray/Bill, ;D
Was considering an inverter pack before I started down the solar path...sounds like an inverter that can be recharged with a solar panel is the thing to look at!!
;D ;D
We have The caravan and camping show in Adelaide next week so I will check 'em out !!
;D
If anyone else has used them please have your say!

Marc

[retro1]

Hi Marc
When cosidering an inverter you will need to consider what you will be running. If you only need it for lighting the 12 volt jump starters are great. As cuz said check your appliances first. The beat place for advice is Dario Caravans they will ask you what you want to run etc. As in regards to the inverter you have to take in where the battery is, amp/hour battery size etc. It all gets very complicated and although it may work in some cases the inverters pack it in if they don't get the right amps and volts. One of the things Dario will ask is how long you go away for, what do you cook on, what 240 volt items you have and calculate a system for you. Beware to be shocked ( sorry for the sick humour ;D)price wise . As for my van I run a 12 volt 900 amp jump starter pack which runs a light over the sink and an external light. I have used it for over 2 weeks with out charging and as the others have already said it works out very cheap this way. If you decide to go away for a long while you can buy a solar panel to charge the pack for about $50 . If you need to run a fridge consider the new portable 3 way units for about $350. Just remember to ask a lot of questions and always get some quotes as solar/inverters can be %$#@& expensive.

[jazhow2]

Thanks A ...I mean Retro1

You made more sense in a couple of paragraphs than I got from a visit to my/our local camping store......the person on duty tried their best to answer all my questions...and to sell me a system for $1100 that I think would let me cut the power off at home as well...or at least it bloody should for the price... but ended up suggesting they get the the solar "expert to ring me".......their expert has not rung me back after 3 days!! .......CUSTOMER SERVICE HUH
If I had checked this thread Icould have saved myself the trip!!!!! ;D ;D
Say G'day to "Rudolph"...tell her it might pay to slip.
slop, slap at the next "All American Day"

Thanks again!!

Marc

[belinda]

Try contacting the Rainbow Power Company at Nimbin. They have a good website and are helpful with advice.

When we get around to it we plan to set up a panel on the garage roof to keep the van charged and install a super-efficient 12v globe in the van.

There are some other posts about lights under "12v lights and stuff", including Rainbow Power Company's web address.

[retro1]

Here is some info that may help you overcome the expense of solar power. If you are interseted I'll get Mrs Retro to photocopy for you Marc.

[Deleted]

Hey Retro
A wind generator !!! Now that would definitely be a period accessory , far more advanced than any inverter, solar panel, or jump starter pack contraption .and environmentally friendly as well.
How cool would the van look with a bank of say........ 4 of these nifty devices strapped across the roof ,all whizzing around at 10,000 RPM while cruising down the highway. ;D ;D ;D ;D
To oncoming traffic the van would look like a Lancaster bomber in a bombing run scene from "Dam Busters"

Maybe position one on each corner of the roof to scare the birds and fruit bats off pooing on our vans during fruit picking season.

I have a Cessna prop down the shed..... maybe i could run a bank of 2 dozen of these little suckers off the one prop and run a reverse cycle air conditioner in "Just Croozn" now that would be taking the meaning of "COOL" to a new level ;D

The options are endless.

On a serious note. I would love a copy of the info. I have had a facination with DYI projects since I was a young lad.
Do you mind if i contact you off list?

Reddo

[jazhow2]

Hi all,
After taking on board all those suggestions...we ended up purchasing a 240 amp-hour caravan battery at the caravan and camping show.

We had all sorts of salemanspeak but got the most sense from "12 volt Shop" bloke just before closing time!!

I now know that these sealed type batteries are different from normal car batteries in that they do not posses the "cranking amps" or instant umph..to start the Lancruiser...but will keep feeding small ammounts out day after day. ;D

This may have been obvious to everyone else ...but other novices like me might pick up a few clues from the back of our "learning curve"!!

The battery gets recharged from the car en route.

We were assured that this size battery has enough power to run our 3 x 20 watt caravan lights for 4 hours a day for 20 days straight without any form of topping up! ;D

This is based on the calculating the use in Amp-hours as follows:

3 lights x 20 watts x 4 hous
12 volts

which equalls:
240 which equals 20 !!! Whew!
12

Our first test of the theory has worked...with the battery still powering the lights strong as ever when we got back home from 10 days away!

And all of that time standing without any recharge from the car!

Next trip we will be a bit brave and try running the 3way fridge on 12 volt instead of gas!

Maybe that way we will have enough gas to cook all those Crayfish!!! (Keep an eye on our photo album for an explanation in a few days time)

If the fridge draws too much we can add a small solar panel (say 20 to 40 watts )that will trickle a bit back into the battery each day....but need to save the pennies first!!!

Hope this helps someone in a similar pickle some day!!

Marc

[Deleted]

Hey Marc

If you plan on running your fridge on 12 volt just be mindfull that as the battery voltage drops the fridge works harder to "Suck" the amps it needs to keep running efficiently.
I had an Engel fridge set up in a 4X4 hilux years ago . over a three day period it drained the battery flat while camping on Fraser island.
With the increase in demand the plug and lead got very hot and actually melted the adaptor plug on the lead where it plugs into the fridge.

It takes a lot of travelling to charge a battery back up from a near flat state with a car alternator. Normal overnight stops aren't a problem and the battery recovers reasonably quickly from the cars charging system when you start travelling the next day. But keep an eye on it if you plan to "Drop anchor" in one spot for an extended period without charging the battery.

Heres a few tips - your fridge will thank you.

This is bound to start a debate but I can only reflect on years of fishing and shooting trips.

1. Run the fridge on gas when ever you are stopping for more than one night ( gas is more efficient than 'lectricity on camp fridges).

2. Freeze things like meat etc in your home freezer before you pack it in the camp fridge. Your fridge will thank you for it 'caus it doesnt have to suck the heat out of things to make them cold. ( i think Belinda mentioned this when discussing the old ice chests and how to make the ice last longer)

3. Think about what you want out of the fridge before you open the door/lid . The longer you stand there scratching your bum thinking about what ya gunna have for lunch , the longer it takes the fridge to recover once you shut the door/lid.

4. Run it on the battery while touring. 12 volts out of your cars charging system costs nothing.

5 . If you can afford a 3 way camping freezer then buy it rather than a fridge. They chill things down quicker than a fridge and a can be adjusted back via the thermostat to run at "fridge temperature". Freezers are handy when you have a heap of fresh fish fillets ( or a lobster) or freshly shot rabbits that need to be kept cold.

6. Try and keep the fridge out of direct heat from the sun . Might mean stretching a tarp down the off side of your van but it stand to reason that the cooler the fridge is the less work it has to do.

7. Make sure the door seals are in good conditionand seals properly all the way around when the door is shut.

8. Might not look original in old ply vans but fit louvres/vents in the side of the van behind the fridge to allow the heat generated to escape rather than hang around the back of the fridge.

9. Most important point of all. Keep an eye on ya stubbies. They can freeze quite quickly if ya don't make regular visits to the freezer. ;D

Hope this helps
Reddo

[jazhow2]

Reddo,

You are spot on...we have had to work with gas lights and eskys for years on our fishing trips....this is our first venture into the world of 12 volts and vans!! ;D
We picked up a Chesscold 3 way fridge a few years back...after hiring one first, and obviously being impressed. ;D
They are great little units and run for ages on a small ammount of gas!
The bugger factor is the wind blowing out the pilot
hence the reason i carry a couple of small bits of cement sheet for wind deflectors..so I can't wait to ge hold of an annexe and set it up out of the elements and then I reckon we will be just about set!!!
Curious to see how the freezer runs on 12 volt though as I have not had had reason to try before!

I'm more looking at 12 volt as a way of keeping things cold en route as we often go on 5 hour trips...but you need to run a heavy wire/fuse back to the battery to be safe. Another job on the list...at least I managed to replace the seals before we left...on both the freezer and the ice box!

Check out more on our latest album post!

And the site Dennis mentioned is full of useful stuff if anyone is like us and keen to look at solar down the track.
Cheers,
Marc

[bubbles]

Maybe you could dig up one of the old pedal power units that the outback used to use to contact the royal flying doctor that way you can exercise and get power at the same time. { just jokeing }
Maurice

[cobber]

After you have finished fiddling
with your cars electric’s, and made
sure all the earth wire connections
are clean and tight, be sure to check
for “stray currents”, particularly if your
motor has aluminum components such
as alum. head, radiator core or water
pump etc. This test would most likely
be done best by your local auto electrician.
The electrolysis caused by the stray
currents generated can creep up on you
quickly--or slowly.
After traveling around Australia
---in an anti-clockwise direction for five
months,(I don’t think that was the cause
of the problem)--not with a caravan but with a
slide-on-camper on a longreach falcon ute
with an auxiliary battery fitted, I had
problems at Minnipa S.A. just on the eastern
end of the Nullarbor. After the aluminum
head was removed it was found to have
been corroded away between the water
jacket and number five cylinder.
After this excitement I researched the
causes and cures. NRMA have a good article
about it which I can’t find on the www but
you can get a summary of it @
www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14833

Also Tectaloy have information on the problem,
do a google on “tectaloy death by electrocution”
it’s on page 12 of that bulletin.

Better to be sure than sorry.
Cobber.

[Deleted]

Hello Cobber
Firstly i apologise to the vintage van crew . This email has no van content what so ever.

I have spoken to several 'Late model" Ford owners (6 cylinder variety) . They have all suffered the same fate with cylinder heads. Every time we go on a trip we have a competition to spot how many fords are on the side of the road with bonnets up and steam coming from within.

We even spotted an EB falcon wagon on the side of the road with a boiling/busted radiator that had an EA sedan on carfloat behind it. May have suffered the same problem as the wagon !!!! Hmmmmmm.

When buying new head gaskets Ford have the option of the $100 or $240 gasket set. when the mate enquired whats the difference the counter person said " the $100 set will last 12 months. the $240 set will get you 2 may be 3 years down the track before your next rebuild.
Hmmmmmm again.
"
Head studs corrode quickly and are only about 12mm thick. If they dont corrode through they snap when trying to undo them. radiators have plastic top tanks which have been known to part company with the rest of the radiator.

I am not saying Holdens are much better but at least they gave up on the straight 6 about 1989 with the advent of the VN - V6 Commodore

Yep, Yep, Yep Give me an old clunker anyday. Bugger the alloy heads.

Footnote: before i get stomped on by the ford owners I will admit that Ford have got thier V8 sorted very well.

Reddo - ducking for cover.

[cobber]

G’Day Reddo,
I have a Holden (the old FJ), a ford (the Falcon
ute which is soon for sale) and a Mitsubishi
(Magna that I have just bought, to help the
workers out in SA) so you can see I am
fair, just, and unbiased too.
This stray current thing can attack any make
of car (as you would know, but you just
couldn't help yourself could you ) and the likely
hood of it happening is higher when something is hooked onto the tow bar or extra batteries
and things are fitted to the tow vehicle,
(that’s the bit that makes this post relevant
to van towing).
That NRMA report I referred to gave
examples of common sources of stray currents
for various car makes, e.g.. Commodore: main
battery earth cable @ engine block--rear stop light harness earth--earthing point behind right front headlight. Nissan Pulsar earth cable attached to
right side rear cylinder head bolt--ECU earth--earth circuit for thermo fan.
Early Hyundai's: remove multi earth point at left
front inner guard and replace with eyelet connectors And so it goes. VW Golf, Sigma/Magna, Skyline/Pintara, Falcon/Laser.
One of the main points they make is:
DON’T MIX DIFFERENT BRANDS OF COOLANTS. Bad coolants help conduct the stray currents.

As they say in the classics “It’s a big thing when you look into it”.

Cobber, ;D

[bigdidda]

Retro1,
That wind generator looks perfect for a 40's teardrop.Might even help the Austin as well.
would you mind sending me an email of the information?
it would be greatly appreciated
don ([e-mail] )