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Post by cruisindoug on Nov 7, 2013 17:30:40 GMT 10
Hi all Doing a bit of a refurb on the Sunny's brakes, and it looks to me like there is no way both shoes "actuate" when the lever is moved ... When the lever is actuated, the shoe on the right of this picture is moved outwards towards the drum where indicated, but the shoe on the left does not move, nor does there appear to be any lever or other mechanism whereby it could move: The pivot at the top contains the adjuster, and has a wedge shaped jack screw that is accessed from behind the backing plate, when it is wound in, the wedge pushes both ends of the shoes outward, taking up the wear. I thought that the other side might get pushed through the top pivot initailly, but the jack screw limits the movement by its design and does not allow that to happen ... The brakes are Molloy Engineering 8" X 1.5" items. The question is, is the brake shoe on the left of the picture a "fixed" shoe, and if so, how does it ever help stop the thing??? And one other thing, the studs measure at .490" diameter, larger than Holden studs, but it is HT stud pattern - any one know what car wheel nuts would fit? I have 1 odd wheel nut that looks right Cheers Doug
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Post by kaybee on Nov 7, 2013 18:15:38 GMT 10
Hi Doug,I don't know about your shoe dilemma ,but I reckon if you tried Ford wheel nuts you'd probably find they are the ones for those studs , cheers.....Col.
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Post by cruisindoug on Nov 7, 2013 18:20:21 GMT 10
Thanks Col, are they all the same accross models? (the nut that I do have that fits is 13/16")
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Post by kaybee on Nov 7, 2013 20:29:53 GMT 10
Yes Doug , all the regular style of steel nuts have been the same since 1932 and still use the B prefix part number from back then, and the hex size is 13/16"......the mag type nuts are different of course....cheers....
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Post by cruisindoug on Nov 7, 2013 21:10:15 GMT 10
Thanks Col
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Post by griffin on Nov 7, 2013 21:29:01 GMT 10
Hi cruisindoug
Your brakes look to be the same as those on my '68 Olympic, and I too was baffled as to the operation. An expert at the brake place I took them to told me it is called 'servo assisted' and went to great lengths to explain how they work. I nodded knowingly during the explanation but really couldn't understand. Somehow the lever actuated shoe causes the other shoe to pick up as it makes contact with the drum.
Both my linings were well worn so it must work.
It at least cleared up why I could never find anything that looked like a 'servo' in the cable brake system on my 34 Vauxhall which was touted as having servo assisted brakes.
There must be a brake man on the Forum who can explain it properly.
George
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Post by Franklin1 on Nov 7, 2013 21:32:45 GMT 10
G'day Doug, My knowledge of cars is limited to how to fill them with petrol, and how to wash them (on rare occasions ). However, I had a search through the Classic forum for anything relating to brakes, and came across a post that gave a Youtube link to a video about adjusting MGA and MGB brakes. The MGA section of the video (it's the second half) might give some information about how your van brakes work. See here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmcaxLzEq6k&feature=bf_next&list=PLC1DC830BCE707FF5&lf=results_mainCheers, Al.
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bigkel
Full Member
If you never never go, you never never know.
Posts: 248
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Post by bigkel on Nov 7, 2013 23:18:55 GMT 10
Hi .A servo would do the same job as a booster .. and i think from memory that bolt at the bottom holding every thing to the backing plate must be left loose enough for the entire lower mechanism to slide to the left in a slot in the backing plate allowing the left shoe to contact the drum ,not sure . good luck , it does self equalize some how and put pressure on to both shoes , and some of the parts near that bolt need to slide to make that work .
cheers Kel.
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Post by cruisindoug on Nov 8, 2013 6:22:36 GMT 10
Thanks everyone, looks like the bottom lever section needs to be set up so that it slides About to go have a play, but that you tube video Al looks to show the explaination (from 3 min 25 sec) the MGA section. Thanks all for your input!
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Post by greedy53 on Nov 8, 2013 11:44:04 GMT 10
yep you all have it right the only good point is you carry a spear set of brakes,if you take a look around wreckers you wll find a rod that fits across from shoe to shoe this wlil get both working,for the life of me i can't see why l,oh and get the spring with it
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Post by 2lateagain on Nov 8, 2013 16:21:48 GMT 10
bigkel is right, the shoes are supposed to equalize as the mechanism at the bottom slides to compensate, bolt needs to be just tight enough to stop it moving in any other direction other than in the direction of the slot cut in the backing plate. A small amount of grease on both sides of the backing plate should be applied, but not of the rubber boot is missing it will only cause it to clog up more.
It should have a rubber boot on the outside to keep out the dirt and other things that tend to gum it up and stop it working, sometimes the weight of the cable if it unsupported over a long area is enough to keep the shoes in contact with the drums and wear them out fairly quickly. Does not need extra bars or springs.
Was a brake mechanic many many moons ago.
Graham
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Post by cruisindoug on Nov 8, 2013 17:59:22 GMT 10
Thanks for that I have set them up so that there is movement, bit of anti sieze as well. Will have to see if I can track down a couple of boots...
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bigkel
Full Member
If you never never go, you never never know.
Posts: 248
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Post by bigkel on Nov 8, 2013 18:20:18 GMT 10
Hi again one of my trailers has brakes like this ( so has the Sunliner ) but the trailer brake cable was heavy enough to pull the brakes on , i mounted a longish softish spring to pull in the opposite direction as the cable ,this spring dad an adjustment to set it up right . With my sunliner the spring ( made for 2500kg towing and the sunliner is only 600-700 ) in the tow coupling was way to strong and was not allowing the brakes to come on at all ,so i had to undo that big nut at the back of the sliding section to allow some movement when the brakes are applied ,
cheers kel.
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Post by cruisindoug on Nov 13, 2013 17:07:54 GMT 10
Kel there is a softer spring available ... not sure if its soft ENOUGH for a lightweight van like the Sunnies, but time will tell. Snatched defeat from the jaws of victory with the wheel nuts .... went down to the local wrecker and scavenged up 10 Ford wheel nuts, came home and spun the first five on no dramas - yippee! Went to put the other five on the other drum ... no cigar! Now that I look closely, there are two different brands of drums on it! One has Molloy Engineering cast in the other doesn't The one that isn't playing seems to have a coarser thread than the Ford nuts ... still measures up at .495" ... doesn't really matter what fits it I ain't having two different wheel nuts on the thing, bad enough they are different from the tow car (bugger should have thought to grab an extra 5 spares); it will be off to try and get 5 new Ford style wheel studs to fit Maybe I should have just gone electric Cheers Doug
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2up
Full Member
Feel free to visit us in Elmhurst , Victoria
Posts: 367
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Post by 2up on Nov 13, 2013 17:40:45 GMT 10
I have cable override brakes on the 21 footer, never a problem, in fact ,on the way home from Melbourne on Monday needed to do a very quick stop ( a space invader) and did a 6 wheel lock up, so go figure? Ah love the smell of burning rubber at 90 Klm/hr !
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Post by kaybee on Nov 13, 2013 18:04:11 GMT 10
Hiya Doug, sounds like you have Metric coarse threads on one drum , might be worth a trip to your local tyre service with the drum and see if there's someone there who can identify the tread....maybe even have the nuts you need. Changing the studs will probably bring you more misery than having 2 sets of nuts......
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Post by iloverust on Oct 27, 2014 19:43:58 GMT 10
HI I have a sunny that has the brake shoes missing from one side. I went into ISP and they told me id need to remove the original brakes and fit their new 9-10 inch system as no one makes the 8 inch pads any more. I find this hard to believe? Would you be able to help me find some new brake shoes or know a part number for the originals Nick & Sophie Hi all Doing a bit of a refurb on the Sunny's brakes, and it looks to me like there is no way both shoes "actuate" when the lever is moved ... When the lever is actuated, the shoe on the right of this picture is moved outwards towards the drum where indicated, but the shoe on the left does not move, nor does there appear to be any lever or other mechanism whereby it could move: The pivot at the top contains the adjuster, and has a wedge shaped jack screw that is accessed from behind the backing plate, when it is wound in, the wedge pushes both ends of the shoes outward, taking up the wear. I thought that the other side might get pushed through the top pivot initailly, but the jack screw limits the movement by its design and does not allow that to happen ... The brakes are Molloy Engineering 8" X 1.5" items. The question is, is the brake shoe on the left of the picture a "fixed" shoe, and if so, how does it ever help stop the thing??? And one other thing, the studs measure at .490" diameter, larger than Holden studs, but it is HT stud pattern - any one know what car wheel nuts would fit? I have 1 odd wheel nut that looks right Cheers Doug
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Post by cruisindoug on Nov 25, 2014 21:34:20 GMT 10
Hi there sorry it took me a while to see your post I don't get on here as often as I used to - my pads didn't need replacing but you could try a place like Pro Bar, they had some 8"brakes in stock when I was in there last time ... I think they are a franchise so maybe one near you?
Cheers Doug
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Post by gregh on Nov 26, 2014 15:46:23 GMT 10
I recently had my 8" brake shows relined with new pads. I believe most auto brake shops can get this done. It takes a few days but the price is fair.
Cheers Greg
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